Its proximity to Italy rendered Augsburg more quickly subject to the
influence of the Italian style than Nuremberg and Munich, though by the
middle of the sixteenth century the whole of Southern Germany followed
the style of decoration of the Italian masters so thoroughly, that it is
difficult to assign a large proportion of the ornaments of the period to
either nation, since the distinguishing feature of the hall-mark finds
no place on jewellery, as on other objects in the precious metals. It is
true that the extraordinary development of cartouche and strap ornament
on German work, as on that of the Netherlands, serves in many cases to
distinguish it from the Italian, yet there is sufficient similarity in
details of ornamentation, in masks and figures, as well as in the method
of enamel-work and the setting of gems, to account for the divergence
of opinion that exists as to the provenance of all the jewels of the
period. Such is the glamour that surrounds Italian art, that it has been
the custom to assign every fine jewel of the Renaissance to Italy; but a
careful examination of existing examples has left us convinced that by
far the greater number of them are not Italian, but of German origin,
and belong to the second half of the sixteenth century and the early
years of the seventeenth. Portraits, alone, by such German painters as
Wolgemut, Strigel, Burgkmair, Altdorfer, Hans Baldung Grien, Lucas
Cranach, and Bartholomäus Bruyn, show that by the very commencement of
the sixteenth century the wealth of the merchant princes of Southern
Germany resulted in an even greater display of jewellery than was
indulged in by the Italians.
Various other considerations contribute to this conviction. First and
foremost is the question of the designs from which the jewellers drew
their ideas. A certain number of original drawings for jewellery by
German artists exist. Of these there are examples of the work of the two
greatest, namely Dürer (1471-1528) and Holbein (1497-1543). To Holbein's
drawings, which were executed in England, detailed reference is made in
a later chapter. In his designs for jewellery, as in all else, Dürer,
the son of a goldsmith and descended from one on his mother's side,
maintains a high standard of excellence.
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