Few engraved designs for jewellery are prior in date to the year
1550, though nearly all the prominent painter-engravers delighted in
exercising their inventive faculty in this direction. One or two plates
of pendants by Brosamer, and a buckle and whistle by Aldegrever,
represent almost the sole engravings of the kind before Virgil
Solis--the first to devise a more ambitious series of jewels. Amongst
the earliest is the _Kunstbüchlein_[124] or pattern book for goldsmith's
work, by Hans Brosamer (about 1480-1554). These woodcuts, which are
singularly attractive, are of a transitional character, with traces of
Gothic design. They include two pages of pendants composed of stones
between leafwork grouped round a central ornament and hung with
pear-shaped pearls. One pendant consists of a niche between pillars--a
similar style of ornament to that adopted by Androuet Ducerceau, and the
first assignable instance, says Herr Lichtwark,[125] of the use of
architecture in German jewellery of this time, though this same motive
was frequently represented later on by Erasmus Hornick and Mignot.
Three other pendants are in the form of whistles for wearing on the
neck-chain. In an engraving for a whistle of a similar kind by
Aldegrever (1502-1558), the lower part is formed of a case containing
an ear-pick and a knife for the finger-nails. Except for this design
(which finds a place in the background of his engraving of the pair of
folding pocket-spoons of the year 1539), Aldegrever's only example of
jewellery is the remarkable Gothic girdle-buckle with its buckle-plate
and tag (dated 1537). The characteristic fig-leaf ornament of the early
German Renaissance is better represented here than on any other
engraving of the period.
[124] Reproduced by Quaritch in 1897 from a copy now in the
possession of Mr. Max Rosenheim.
[125] Lichtwark (A.), _Der Ornamentstich der deutschen
Frührenaissance_, p. 111.
More modern in style is Mathias Zundt (1498-1586), whose compositions
(dated 1551-1554) are carried out with great fineness. Zundt lived at
Nuremberg, his great contemporaries, Virgil Solis and Erasmus Hornick
being natives of the same city.
It was to Virgil Solis (1514-1562), one of the most skilful and prolific
of the German _Klein-Meister_, that the jewellers and other craftsmen of
the day owed their finest inspirations. Virgil Solis's beautiful series
of pendants are executed with great charm and delicacy. They bear the
character of a transition from the graceful foliage of the early to the
full Renaissance, with its fanciful architectural forms, its scroll
ornament, arabesques, animals, and grotesque human masks and figures
(Pl. XXVII, 1, 2).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account