Spain occupies a peculiar place with respect to its Renaissance
jewellery. In the sixteenth century the Spanish Peninsula was perhaps
the richest part of the civilised world. Even at a time when universal
luxury in personal ornaments reigned, Spain made itself an object of
note by its extraordinary display in this direction. The union under
the same dominion of three of the most powerful countries of Europe
coincident with the newly developed wealth of America resulted in a
desire among all classes for a more luxurious style of living and for
more sumptuous ornaments. The natural instinct of wealthy and cultured
individuals to surround themselves with the choicest productions of the
fine arts led to the importation of the best of such objects from other
countries and of the first foreign craftsmen of the day.
Juan de Arphe, "the Spanish Cellini," himself of German extraction,
devoted much attention to the naturalisation of Renaissance forms. Other
jewellers also remained in so large a measure dependent on foreign
influence, at first of Italian types, and then of the designs of French,
German, and Flemish engravers of ornament, that it is often hard to
arrive at a decision as to the precise provenance of their productions.
But just as other works of art, the product of different countries, are
stamped with certain indefinable characteristics, which in general
circumstances may at once be detected, so jewels of Spanish origin
betray the influence of national temperament in their composition and
design. The series of drawings by Barcelona jewellers published by
Davillier in his _Recherches sur l'Orfèvrerie en Espagne_, bear
sufficient evidence of this native spirit.
Nevertheless, the majority of the surviving examples of the Renaissance
jewellery of Spain approach at times very near to those of Germany. And
there can be little doubt that the Nuremberg and Augsburg jewels which,
as has been shown, were in vogue not only all over Germany, but in
France and England and the Low Countries, were imported and imitated,
as Davillier says, by the goldsmiths of Spain.
The most important Spanish jewels of the sixteenth century are in the
form of enamelled pendants. Of these the Victoria and Albert Museum
possesses a collection, excelled by that of no other public museum,
which acquired at the sale in 1870 of the treasures of the sanctuary of
the Virgen del Pilar at Saragossa.
A species of pendant which in Spain above all places has always been
popular was the reliquary. It assumed numerous shapes; and among the
many kinds of adornment it received were small panels of painted glass
commonly known as _verres églomisés_.
This so-called _verre églomisé_, which had been handed down from
antiquity and was used in the Middle Ages, was brought to high
perfection at the Renaissance. Adopted from Italy, where it was also
employed for jewellery, it met with considerable favour in Spain in the
sixteenth century (Pl. XLIII, 4).
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