The design of a few of these pendants is based upon the prevailing
custom of wearing initials of the name either in embroidery or in pure
gold attached to the garments. Some curious instances of this fashion
are recorded by Hall, particularly in his graphic account of what took
place at a masque given by Henry VIII at his palace at Westminster. Upon
the King's invitation to divide the rich garments of the maskers sewn
with letters of "fine and massy gold in bullyon as thicke as they might
be," which generally went as largess to the ladies, a rabble of
citizens, who were allowed to look on, broke in, and "ranne to the Kyng
and stripped hym into his hosen and dublet, and all his compaignions in
like wyse. Syr Thomas Knevet stode on a stage, and for all his defence
he lost his apparell. The ladies like wyse were spoyled, wherfore the
Kynges garde came sodenly, and put the people backe, or els it was
supposed more inconvenience had ensued." So pure was the gold of which
these letters were composed that it is recorded subsequently that a
"shipeman of London who caught certayn letters sould them to a goldsmyth
for £3. 14. 8"--quite a considerable sum in those days.
In the same way jewelled initials were also frequently worn in the form
of pendants and a jewelled B can be seen hanging from the neck of Anne
Boleyn in her portrait in the National Portrait Gallery. Holbein's
drawings contain several beautiful instances of this type of design,
generally completed with three pendent pearls. One of them has a
monogram of the initials R and E in chased and engraved gold set at the
four corners with two rubies, an emerald, and a diamond. Another has the
letters H and I (probably for Henry and Jane Seymour) with an emerald in
the centre; and a somewhat similar jewel, formed of the sacred monogram,
is worn by Jane Seymour in her portrait by Holbein at Vienna.
The designs for the larger pendants, mostly circular or lozenge-shaped,
are set with sapphires, diamonds, rubies, and pearls, and terminate with
large pear-shaped pearls. The spaces between the stones are filled with
chased or enamelled arrangements of scroll or leaf work.
The smaller jewels, which might also have been worn as enseignes or
badges on the hat, or as brooches, are of open goldwork with leaf or
ribbon ornament set with stones and pearls. They include a very
beautiful design of a half-length figure of a lady in the costume of
the period holding between her hands a large stone, upon which is the
inscription WELL LAYDI WELL (Pl. XXVI, 9). The fifteenth-century
traditions seem to have influenced Holbein in the design of this jewel,
which at once calls to mind the Flemish-Burgundian brooches (an example
of which, in the British Museum, has already been mentioned) ornamented
with similar figures, full-faced, and holding a large stone before them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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