In England, during the sixteenth century, brooches, owches, or nowches,
as they were often called, were extensively worn in caps and hats[141]
as men's jewels in particular; and besides these there were jewelled
hat-bands richly decorated with precious stones. The chronicler Hall
mentions that on one occasion, in 1513, Henry VIII wore a hat called a
"chapeau montabyn" which was adorned with a rich band or coronal, and
had in addition an enseigne, for "y^e folde of the chapeau was lined
with crimsyn saten; and on y^t a riche brooch withe y^e image of
sainct George." An enamelled brooch of this design modelled in full
relief with the figure of St. George and the dragon, with the Princess
Sabra in the background, is preserved amongst the exceedingly
interesting series of jewels in His Majesty's collection at Windsor
Castle. It is of gold, finely chased, brilliantly modelled, and
surrounded with an open wire balustrade enamelled green. This brooch,
traditionally believed to have been worn by Henry VIII, is known as the
Holbein George; but internal evidences tend to prove the unlikelihood of
Holbein having had any hand in its construction. It appears to be of
Venetian origin--though not without some traces of German influence--and
to date from the first few years of the sixteenth century (Pl. XXVIII,
2).
[141] "He gave me a jewel the other day, and now he has beat it
out of my hat" (_Timon of Athens_, Act iii.)
"Honour's a good brooch to wear in a man's hat at all times"
(Ben Jonson, _Poetaster_).
"And his hat turned up, with a silver clasp on his leer side"
(Ben Jonson, _Tale of a Tub_).
There exist several other jewels, the majority of them hat-ornaments,
executed in this so-called "gold wire" enamel,[142] of the same
exquisite and rare style of workmanship, and all possessing a singular
likeness to that at Windsor, both in the patterns of the dresses worn by
the figures represented on them, and in general treatment, particularly
of the hair of the figures, which is formed of ringlets of spiral
twisted gold wire. Among other examples are two in the Salting
Collection, another which was lately in the collection of Sir T. Gibson
Carmichael,[143] and a fourth in the Cabinet des Antiques in the
Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.
[142] Bonnaffé (E.), _La collection Spitzer_, III, p. 134.
[143] Burlington Fine Arts Club, _Catalogue of enamels_, 1897.
The wide range of subjects chosen for hat-ornaments can best be judged
from the lists of "bonnets" in Henry VIII's possession in the years 1526
and 1530, enriched with a variety of brooches.[144]
[144] _Letters and Papers of Henry VIII_, IV, Nos. 1907 and 6789.
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