With the revival of the glyptic art, cameos begin to play a prominent
part in jewellery. A considerable number of cameos in the great gem
collections, set in exquisite jewelled and enamelled mounts, are
provided with loops for use as pendants.[160] Numerous gems, splendidly
mounted as pendants, are to be found in the Bibliothèque Nationale at
Paris (Pl. XXXI, 6); and in the British Museum are a few fine examples
from the Carlisle Collection. Of extant pendants having as a
centre-piece a figured subject, either cut in cameo or of repoussé work
enamelled, the majority show uneven contours, generally of broken
strapwork, after the manner of the German ornamentists, though not a few
of those of oval shape have frames with smooth outlines. Many, on the
other hand, follow the cartouche design in form of shields with upturned
edges. These figure chiefly in the designs of the French _maîtres
ornemanistes_, Androuet Ducerceau and Woeiriot. The doubling of the
frame characteristic of the French cartouches, and the broken contours
of the German pendants, which allow of a variety of intertwinings and
traversings, offer a favourite field for the display of the jeweller's
art in the application of polychrome enamels.
[160] Davenport, _Cameos_, 1900.
[Illustration: _PLATE XXXII_ ENAMELLED GOLD PENDANTS SET
WITH PEARLS AND PRECIOUS STONES
GERMAN, ABOUT 1600
(THE PROPERTY OF LADY ROTHSCHILD)]
The "nef," or model of a ship, was of frequent use as an article of
table plate. Pendent jewels likewise take the form of a small ship
completely equipped,[161] suspended by chains, and hung with pearls.
In this style of jewel, which is perhaps of Venetian origin, the
crescent-shaped caravel or carvel, open and without a deck, but built up
high at the prow and stern, with forecastle and cabin, and large ship's
lantern, is often adhered to; but the design is not infrequently
somewhat conventional. Many of the best-known collections contain
examples of these "nef" or "navette" pendants. Their probable Adriatic
origin is evinced by the several specimens exhibited, together with
jewels from the Greek Islands, in the Franks Bequest in the British
Museum. The Victoria and Albert Museum contains a choice example from
the Spitzer Collection. It carries three masts, five sails, a lantern,
and a high poop and stern. The rigging is of twisted gold wire, and
the hull covered with an imbricated pattern in translucent blue, red,
and green, and opaque white enamels. A variety to this form is presented
by a remarkable piece in the museum at Vienna. It represents a barque
manned by two rowers; while at the prow and stern are mandoline players
who entertain two passengers seated beneath the framework awning such as
was in use on the gondolas of the time. The whole is enriched with
polychrome enamels. The figures are in full relief, and the boat, hung
by three chains, is further set with diamonds and rubies. We may
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