The splendour-loving sixteenth century far surpassed the Middle Ages
in the use of the finger ring. No other ornament of the Renaissance
attained such richness and profusion. In sixteenth and seventeenth
century portraits rings are represented in such quantities that the
hands appear overburdened with them; while the number entered in the old
inventories is astounding. Yet it is well to remember that the word
_bague_, which we translate a ring, was a general term for all pendent
jewels--though not infrequently a distinction in the lists is drawn
between _bague à mettre aux oreilles_ (an earring), _bague à pendre_ (a
pendant), and _bague à mettre au doigt_. The extraordinary abundance of
finger rings in use at the time may best be judged by a list in the
inventory of Henry VIII of the year 1530, which contains no less than
234.
Of the large number of Renaissance rings that have survived to the
present day most are of a purely ornamental character; and though many
others are of interest on account of their emblematic or historical
associations, those which display artistic work require the chief
consideration. Out of all the rings that simply served the purpose
of decoration, there are very few whose nationality can be easily
determined. If it is difficult in the case of pendants and similar
ornaments to come to a decision with regard to the question of
provenance, it is even more so where rings are concerned.
Pictures of the period, as has been said, represent persons with their
hands heavily loaded with rings, which are worn upon all the fingers,
the thumb included. Every finger-joint up to the very nail is covered
with them, and they are worn, as by the ancient Romans, even upon the
knuckles. The great projection of the rings' bezels would have rendered
the use of gloves impossible, were it not, as we know from pictures, for
the custom of placing the rings outside the gloves, and also for the
somewhat ugly fashion of slitting the fingers of the gloves, in order
that they might be worn with greater comfort, and allow the rings
themselves to be displayed. In a portrait of a lady by Lucas Cranach in
the National Gallery, rings are worn both over and beneath the gloves,
every finger and the thumbs having two or three. The rings under the
gloves appear on the top of the second knuckle of every finger, and are
visible through the _crevés_ made in the gloves at these points. In
other pictures by this artist, such as that entitled "Judith" at Vienna,
and in the works of his contemporaries in Germany, the same slashed
gloves are to be seen. Men's gloves, too, like their doublets, were
slashed, as is clear from the engraved portrait of Duke William of
Juliers, by Aldegrever. Bishop Hall (_Satires_, III, iv) refers thus to
the current fashion:--
Nor can good Myson wear on his left hond,
A signet ring of Bristol diamond,[167]
But he must cut his glove to show his pride,
That his trim jewel might be better spy'd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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