The common material was leather or stuff, such as was employed for men's
girdles. The long and narrow thong of leather, termed _courroye_, was
worn by all classes. Rows of such girdles are figured in the background
of Jost Amman's well-known woodcut of the _ceinturier_ in his workshop,
of the year 1594.
The majority of Renaissance girdles, confined solely to female attire,
were made entirely of silver or silver-gilt, and even of silvered or
gilded bronze. They took the form of flat chains composed of links,
generally with solid pieces in the shape of oblong plaques, of cast or
chased work, introduced at regular intervals. The solid parts,
particularly those that formed the clasps, were occasionally enriched
with enamels, precious stones, or engraved gems. The majority of
collections contain specimens of such girdles; but simpler kinds,
composed entirely of ring-shaped links, which, judging from numerous
Flemish, Dutch, and German portraits, must have been in very general use
in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, are much less frequently met
with. A good example of such, a chain in silver-gilt, of German work of
the second half of the sixteenth century, is preserved in the Musée du
Cinquantenaire at Brussels. It is formed of rounded grooved links. At
one end is a rosette-shaped girdle plate set with a white crystal, and
having a hook behind to catch into any link of the chain. The other end
terminates in a pear-shaped pomander 3½ inches long, and divided for
the reception of different cosmetics into two parts, united by a screw
from below.
A considerable number of girdles of leather or strips of material are
found mounted after the mediæval style with buttons or studs, and
instead of clasps, have buckles at one end, and at the other the
pendants or chapes common in earlier times.
It is not unusual to meet with girdles of Flemish or German work which,
though dating from the latter part of the seventeenth century, are
ornamented with Gothic patterns. The buckle and pendant (_mordant_),
deeply pierced with open-work tracery of flamboyant design, are
generally united by only a short thong, and are so overcharged with
ornament that it is doubtful if they could have been of any practical
use. Such objects appear in reality to be but specimens of their work
submitted by girdlers who were desirous of obtaining admission to the
Girdlers' Company. They serve to show how long-lived were Gothic
traditions among the guilds. Examples in silver or bronze gilt are to be
found in the Germanic Museum, Nuremberg, the Victoria and Albert Museum
(No. 2304-'55), the Waddesdon Bequest (No. 226), dated 1680, the Wallace
Collection (No. 783), dated 1709, and in many other public collections
(Pl. XXXVIII, 3).
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