For the first general employment of the diamond in jewellery one must
look back to the fifteenth century, to the invention of the art of
cutting that stone, which is generally credited, in spite of Laborde's
opinion to the contrary, to Louis de Berghem of Bruges in the year 1475.
From that date until the beginning of the seventeenth century every
diamond, as is seen both by jewels and their designs, was one of two
forms: either the "point," a four-sided pyramid produced by polishing
the faces of the native octahedral crystal of diamond and making them
exactly true and regular; or the "table," in which the point of the
crystal is reduced to a square or oblong plane, the opposite extremity
being also in plane form, but of smaller extent, with sloping faceted
edges. This simple cutting did so little to augment the brilliance of
the diamond that the jewellers of the sixteenth century had to depend on
the _tinctura_ or foiling of the stone, in which art Cellini in his
treatise, with his characteristic appreciation of his own merits, tells
us that he particularly excelled.
The change of taste in the seventeenth century may be attributed to the
opening up of the diamond fields of Golconda on the southern borders of
the State of Hyderabad, at the beginning of that century, and to the
enterprise of the French travellers, Tavernier, Chardin, and others,
who, during their frequent voyages to Persia and India, dealt largely
in precious stones. These travellers succeeded in establishing new
commercial relations, which led to the introduction into Europe of
abundance of precious stones and particularly diamonds; while the
narratives of their journeys, furnishing more exact knowledge of the
quality and value of the products of the East, attracted towards
precious stones a new interest.
Owing to the abundance of material imported from the East, the market
for precious stones assumed an entirely different aspect; while the
quantity and beauty of the material thus at their disposal spurred on
the stone-cutters towards the improvement of their technique, until at
the end of the century they arrived at the true cutting of the diamond.
Besides the "point," which was but rarely used, the table-cut diamond
alone was employed until the commencement of the seventeenth century.
About that time there came into use the "rose," a half-crystal, flat at
the base and with a convex top covered with a number of small facets.
Stones faceted in this manner were at first mostly small and unimportant
and cut very irregularly into four or six facets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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