The finger rings of the early seventeenth century, as far as one
can judge from pictures, did not differ essentially from the late
sixteenth-century types; in fact many of the ornamental rings usually
ascribed to the sixteenth century really date from the first half of the
seventeenth. The majority of small niello designs engraved at this
period were patterns for the shoulders of rings, intended to be executed
in enamel by the champlevé process (Pl. XLI). Henri, son of Jean Toutin,
furnishes a couple of engravings for rings, of the year 1628, of which
the whole outer surface of the hoop is covered with designs reserved in
white on a black ground. De la Quewellerie of Amsterdam, 1635, has also
left the designs for a finger ring in the same style. The love for
"bouquets d'orfévrerie"--flower designs in coloured stones--finds
expression, towards the end of the century, in the _giardinetti_ ring,
the bezel of which is formed like a nosegay, a basket of flowers, or a
bunch of flowers springing from a vase. These floral designs are of
charming execution, and their coloured stones produce an extremely
pleasing effect. Many of these rings are Italian, but there are several
English examples at South Kensington (Pl. XXXVI, 9, 10).
Painted enamels in flower patterns are found not only on the shoulders
of rings, but covering the entire outer surface. Occasionally flowers
enamelled _à jour_ occur, the hoop of the ring being hollow. Lord
Falkland possesses a good example of one of these rings encircled with
coloured flowers (Pl. XLIV, 8). The hollow space is filled with hair.
Within the hoop is the posy _Difficulty sweetens enjoyment_. Mottoes or
posies of this kind were occasionally engraved on mediæval rings and on
those of the sixteenth century, but the majority of the large number of
rings on which such mottoes occur belong to the seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries. Unlike the example just mentioned, these rings,
with the motto engraved inside them, usually have plain hoops, and were
used as engagement, and sometimes as wedding rings. The mottoes
generally rhyme, but are not remarkable for poetic skill, and they are
found constantly repeated. Numbers of the verses employed for the
purpose are given in Jones's _Finger-Ring Lore_, and in an article
published by Sir John Evans in _Longman's Magazine_ (1892). A few
examples will suffice: _As God decreed so we agreed; God above increase
our love; This take for my sake; The love is true I owe you; In thee my
choice I do rejoice._ Posy rings, like mourning rings, to be referred
to later, are almost exclusively English. As regards the ordinary
ornamental ring of the period, it is to be observed that the diamond,
which came so much to the front at this time, found a prominent place
on it. Towards the close of the century, though enamel-work is still
visible, the purpose of the ring, as at the present day, seems to have
been nothing more than for displaying the diamond on the finger, so far
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account