In England in the time of James I, the love of personal ornament, among
men as well as women, was even more widespread than before. King James,
and also his Queen, who herself possessed a highly extravagant taste for
jewellery, set a public example by their patronage of the jewellers;
while the nobility outbid one another in lavish expenditure. John
Chamberlain, an entertaining correspondent of the day, writes thus in
1608 to a friend unable to attend a masque: "Whatsoever the devise may
be, and what success they may have in their dancing, yet you should be
sure to have seen great riches in jewels, when one lady, and that under
a baroness, is said to be furnished for better than a hundred thousand
pounds; and the lady Arabella goes beyond her, and the Queen must not
come behind."
Contemporary chroniclers have left no descriptions that show precisely
how the King's own person reflected the fashions in jewellery of his
day, yet we know that he possessed an almost childish admiration for
"bravery," as it then was termed, particularly such as was intended for
the decoration of those about his person. A very curious instance of
the King's interest in these matters is to be found in the elaborate
instructions he issued concerning the despatch of a large consignment
of jewels for the use of the Prince of Wales, and his favourite,
Buckingham, on their memorable journey to Spain in 1623. In the spring
of that year orders were given to several officers of State, and with
them the jeweller Heriot, to repair to the Tower and make a selection of
the finest jewels there--some fit for a woman, and others for the Prince
to wear. Among them a "jewel called the Three Brothers, five or six
faire jewels to be worn in men's hats, same to be of £6,000 or £7,000
value, and none under; the five pendent diamonds that were the Queen's,
whether they remain upon a string or be made up upon a feather. If none
of the Targett fashion for hats, the jewels to be broke up to make
them."[179]
[179] _Historical MSS. Commission_, IV, p. 286.
To his son and favourite the King then addresses a letter, in which he
tells them that he had been choosing "the jewells I am to send you,
whereof my Babie is to present some to his Mistresse, and some of the
best hee is to wear himselfe, and the next best hee will lend to my
bastard brat [Buckingham] to wear." On their removal from the Tower the
jewels are carefully inventoried, and Heriot is set to work to refashion
them. After a fortnight's work he promises that they will be finished in
a few days. So, on the 18th of March, "the jewels," we learn, "have been
delivered." "Mr. Herriot is gone to assist in packing them, and has sat
up day and night to get them completed."[180]
[180] _Calendar of State Papers, Domestic_, March 18, 1623.
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