were similarly employed, and, like the former, were frequently worn as
buttons.
[187] _Les bijoux anciens et modernes_, p. 294.
[Illustration: _PLATE XLVII_ EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY NECKLACES, ETC.]
The finger ring in the eighteenth century was a particularly favourite
jewel. That considerable attention was paid at the time to the design
and decoration of the ring, may be judged from Bourguet's designs, which
contain patterns for enamel-work intended for its enrichment. The
beauty of the sentiments displayed on the rings of the time is nowhere
more charmingly expressed than on an English wedding-ring at South
Kensington, which is formed of two hands in white enamel, holding
between the thumbs and first fingers a rose diamond in the shape of a
heart set in silver and surmounted with a jewelled coronet. It bears the
date 1706 (Pl. XXXVI, 3). Other rings of similar style have the bezel
formed of two precious stones in the form of hearts united by a knot.
Rings which served simply as souvenirs of affection were very popular.
In addition to the plain gold ring engraved with a posy or motto, were
rings containing a like sentiment read by means of the first letters of
the stones with which they are set.
The most typical ring of the period is perhaps the _marquise_ ring,
which dates from the second half of the century. The bezel, which is
oblong, and either oval or octagonal, is often of such size that it
covers the whole joint of the finger. It is formed of a plaque of
transparent blue glass on matted gold, surrounded with diamonds, and
set either with a single diamond, or with several arranged at regular
intervals, sometimes in the form of a bouquet. Often instead of diamonds
are pastes and even marcasite. Of other varieties of rings of the time
it is necessary only to mention those set with Wedgwood cameos, or with
stones such as moss-agates, and a form of agate somewhat similar, but of
lighter colour, called the mocha stone. Mourning and memorial rings, of
which this period was so prolific, will be spoken of subsequently.
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