Side by side with the strange vigour and extraordinary joy in life that
marked the period, there existed a great contempt for the value of life
and a gross familiarity with death. It was Death himself, according to
the imagination of the sixteenth century, who, always at hand, clutched
men of every age and condition by the sleeve and hurried them all
unwillingly away.
The emblems of death were always presented in close touch with the
living. The forms they took--the skeleton, or simply the skull, or
Death's head, with cross-bones--were rendered in the sixteenth century
by both painter and sculptor; but it was reserved for the goldsmith--the
sculptor and painter in one--to represent them on jewellery through the
medium of the precious metals enriched with gems and coloured enamels.
They figured on every kind of ornament. Brooches with enamelled skulls
were fastened as enseignes upon the hat; golden jewels like funereal
objects in shape of coffins holding enamelled skeletons hung from the
neck; rosary beads, pomanders and watches in the form of human skulls
were attached to the waist; and rings bearing Death's heads and other
emblems were worn upon the fingers.
A great impetus was given to the use of such articles of adornment by
Diana of Poitiers when she became mistress of Henry II of France. She
was then a widow in mourning; and the complaisant Court not only adopted
her black and white as the fashionable colour, but covered their
personal ornaments with emblems of death.
Jewels of this description, it is clear, were not necessarily carried in
remembrance of any special individual. With their legend "Memento Mori"
they were simply reminders of Death in the abstract. As such they
characterised exactly the temper of the time, and were quite commonly
worn by the upper and middle classes, especially by those who affected
a respectable gravity. At the time of which we now speak the personal
badge or _devise_, an obscure expression of some particular conceit of
its wearer, was at the height of fashion. In its elaboration the various
emblems of death were largely put under contribution, their choice for
the purpose being the outcome of the special disposition of those who
adopted them. Perhaps the most notable instance of the representation
of a badge of this kind is in Holbein's famous "Ambassadors," in the
National Gallery. Here Jean de Dinteville, who stands on the left of the
picture, wears a circular jewel formed of a white enamelled skull in a
gold mount, pinned as an enseigne to the lower rim of his small black
bonnet.
Amongst sundry ornaments bearing mortuary devices, there is a good
example at South Kensington--a _Memento Mori_ charm of enamelled gold in
the form of a coffin containing a minutely articulated skeleton. It is
English work of the Elizabethan period, and was found at Tor Abbey,
Devonshire (Pl. XLIV, 16).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account