In addition to the more formal types of brooches, many fancy devices,
probably of Celtic origin, appear to have been in vogue among the Roman
colonists of Great Britain. These are in the shape of birds, fish, and
all kinds of animals, brilliant with various coloured enamels, which are
often so disposed as to indicate the spots or markings of the animals. A
remarkable series of brooches of this kind is in the possession of Sir
John Evans.
Bracelets and armlets, usually of bronze, have survived in large
numbers. They consist generally of a simple narrow ring, such as could
be slipped over the wrist. Some are pennanular with tapering ends,
others are closed with a hook and eye, while a few have their ends so
twisted together that they can slide over one another and so be taken on
and off. Armlets of glass, chiefly of a deep transparent blue, have also
been found.
Most of the varieties of finger rings already recorded appear to have
been worn in Britain. The extent of the Roman civilisation can be
measured by the number of engraved stones enclosed in their settings or
found apart, the majority of which must have been executed by lapidaries
on the spot.
Many articles, such as rings, armlets, beads, buttons, and amulets, were
formed of jet or Kimmeridge shale, turned on a lathe. In the Island of
Purbeck round flat pieces of jet have been found pierced with holes,
which are clearly refuse pieces of the turner--the nuclei of rings and
other articles. This material appears to be the same as that termed by
Pliny _gigates_. According to him, it was supposed to possess the virtue
of driving away serpents; and personal ornaments made of it were
particularly prized. There seems little doubt that the use of ornaments
of Kimmeridge coal or shale by the Romano-Britons was nothing more than
a survival of the Neolithic or Stone Age. "Great Britain," writes M.
Fontenay in 1887, with reference to the ancient practice of wearing
ornaments of jet, "remains faithful to its early customs; for at the
present day English ladies delight in adorning themselves with jet
jewellery." Fashion changes rapidly, but it will be long, one hopes,
before it again decrees the general use of ornaments of this
unattractive material.
CHAPTER VII
BARBARIC JEWELLERY OF EUROPE
(THE GREAT MIGRATIONS)
During the period of the great migrations, when hordes of barbarians
swept like waves across Europe over the tracks of Roman civilisation,
all traces of classical art rapidly vanished, save in Constantinople,
which remained, as it were, a corner of the antique world. The forms of
classical jewellery in natural course either totally disappeared or
underwent a complete transformation, and there appeared instead a new
process for the decoration of personal ornament, which in earlier times
was practically unknown, save to the goldsmiths of ancient Egypt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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