Just as the desire to imitate precious stones led to the introduction of
enamel, so the Gothic nations who hailed from the south-east corner of
Europe brought into jewellery the Oriental love for colour. Coloured
stones, usually garnets, or red glass, cut in slices, were inlaid
on a metal surface, or were placed side by side, separated only by
intervening strips of metal. This process of inlay or incrustation is of
great importance, since almost every species of jewellery in Europe from
the third till about the eighth century is thus decorated.
The Goths invented no new jewellery, but adapted a style which had long
been in existence. And though the forms of their jewellery may be due to
the growth of local traditions, its decoration is clearly the result of
influences connected in some way with the East. Originating, as it
doubtless did, in Persia or in the further East, this process of inlay
was adopted by the Gothic nations during the earlier centuries of the
Christian era, and made its first appearance among them in the districts
of the Caucasus and in the Crimea. From thence it passed to the Lombards
in Italy, to the Burgundians in Austria and Switzerland, the Visigoths
in Spain, the Merovingians in Gaul, the earlier Scandinavians in
Denmark; and by the Saxon tribes in Northern Germany it was carried to
England, where it attained its highest perfection in the superb circular
brooches that have been brought to light in Kent.
By the discovery of specimens of Asiatic and Germanic jewellery
ornamented in this manner, the path of the migratory tribes can thus be
traced right across the Continent. Yet for the reason that conditions of
property and nationality became altered from one generation to another,
the question to which of the nations numerous pieces of jewellery are
to be ascribed, is difficult to solve. They are often connected with
misunderstood Hellenistic and Asiatic traditions, while at the same time
showing workmanship with barbaric ideas of form.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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