Every priest was trained in some handicraft, and many monks became
excellent goldsmiths. St. Dunstan (924-988), like St. Eloi of France
(588-659), at once a goldsmith and a royal minister, himself worked in
the precious metals; and he appears to have been a jeweller as well, for
we find in old inventories, entries of finger rings described as the
productions of the great prelate. In the Wardrobe Account of Edward I,
in 1299 (_Liber Quotidianus_, p. 348), is "Unus anulus auri cum saphiro
qui fuit de fabrica Sancti Dunstani ut credebatur"; and in the inventory
of that mediæval fop, Piers Gaveston, 1313 (Rymer, _Foedera_, II, i.
p. 203), is: "Un anel d'or, à un saphir, lequel seint Dunstan forga de
ses mayns."
The artistic traditions of the old Saxon jewellers became almost the
sole property of the clergy; and the Venerable Bede, writing at the
commencement of the eighth century, alluding to the monastic jewellers
of his day, describes how "a skilled gold-worker, wishing to do some
admirable work, collects, wherever he can, remarkable and precious
stones to be placed among the gold and silver, as well to show his skill
as for the beauty of the work." The description of these stones as
"chiefly of a ruddy or aerial colour" would seem to indicate that
garnets and turquoises had not even then been entirely supplanted by
enamels. Certain it is that the earlier Christian jewels retained for a
time the technique of those of pagan Saxondom. For example, the gold
cross of St. Cuthbert (d. 687), discovered in his tomb in Durham
Cathedral in 1827 and now preserved in the Cathedral Library, is inlaid
with garnets in the cloisonné manner (Pl. XIII, 3).
The internecine wars of the Saxons and the early ravages of the
Norsemen, from which England was delivered by Alfred during the ninth
century, can have left the country little repose for the cultivation of
the jeweller's art. Yet, in spite of the unhappy condition of England,
the art, judging from inscribed jewels noticed hereafter, was still
practised, and needed only some presiding genius to awaken it to new
life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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