Personal ornaments at this time began to have a wider significance than
that of being merely decorations pleasant to the eye. Their material
value comes more in the foreground. They began to form the nucleus of
family and household treasures. The uncertain conditions of life made
it desirable for the individual to have his most precious possessions
in a portable form. An unfortunate war or royal displeasure might cost
a prince or baron his land or his castles; but his movable goods,
consisting of precious stones and gold and silver ornaments, were not
so easily exposed to the vagaries of his superiors. Thus the numerous
inventories of household goods that have come down from those times show
an astounding increase in the matter of jewels and treasures among the
great and lesser grandees, both secular and ecclesiastical; while there
is a corresponding advance at the same time in craftsmanship. To this
change in the significance of ornaments is to be attributed their rarity
in graves. Jewellery had, in fact, assumed the character of money passed
from hand to hand, and was constantly, so to speak, recoined; for even
if held in steadfast possession it had to submit to changes of fashion
and undergo frequent resetting.[27] Particularly was this the case at
the period of the Renaissance, when almost everything Gothic was
remodelled.
[27] Luthmer (F.), _Gold und Silber_, p. 50.
Tombs, then, supply little or no information; and for the present
purpose one may make shift to use the chance descriptions of romancers,
and such pictorial representations of jewellery as are presented by
effigies on brasses, tombstones, and other monumental sculpture, and
also by illuminated manuscripts. Monumental effigies show a number of
accurately executed personal ornaments, which, belonging as they do
mainly to sovereigns and individuals of wealth and distinction, may be
taken as the highest types of those then worn. The miniatures and
decorations of manuscripts executed towards the end of the period under
review also afford considerable assistance; for illuminators were
intensely fond of introducing jewels among the plants, flowers, birds,
and butterflies minutely depicted on ornamental borders. The inventories
of personal effects made for various purposes, and often full of
graphic details, throughout the whole of the period supply absolutely
trustworthy evidence as to contemporary ornaments. Pictures, which are
among the chief sources of information, are not at one's disposal until
towards the termination of this epoch, but such as were produced during
the later Gothic style, particularly in Italy, Germany, and the Low
Countries, furnish numerous examples of jewellery painted with loving
care and minute detail.
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