Dating first from about this period are a number of inventories of
personal ornaments; and it is by a perusal of the inventories of the
most wealthy, and particularly those of sovereign princes, that an
estimate can be obtained of the nature of every type of ornament in use
at the period, in its most elaborate form. Among the earliest and most
important royal inventories that have been published are those preserved
in the Wardrobe Account (_Liber Quotidianus_) of Edward I, for the year
1299.[37] The jewels (_jocalia_) include a large number of morses or
clasps (_firmacula_) given by the king to bishops, and restored after
their deaths, and similar objects offered by the king or queen to
various shrines; while among other jewels are brooches or nouches
(noucheæ), many rings (_anuli_), a pendant (_pendulum_), belt (_zona_),
bracelet (_braccale_), and baldrick (_baudre_). About this time masses
of precious stones, the spoils of the Crusades, began to find their way
into this country, and to be employed for "broidering" or sewing upon
the garments. Edward II and his extravagant favourites, such as the
worthless Piers Gaveston, loaded themselves with precious stones. Lists
of jewels belonging to Gaveston on his attainder in 1313,[38] and to the
king in 1324, show the magnificence of their ornaments, and the vast
sums at which they were valued. The king's jewels,[39] described in
considerable detail, are inventoried under the following headings:
(_a_) Stones and other objects, (_b_) Crowns of gold and silver,
including _cercles_ and _chapeletz_, (_c_) Brooches (_fermails_)
of gold, (_d_) _Fleures de liz_, (_e_) Rings (_anelx_) of gold,
(_f_) Girdles (_ceintres_) and diadems (_tressoures_). From this time
onward there is an increase of such documents and of wills, and also of
sumptuary laws specially connected with personal ornaments.
[37] Published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1789. pp. 332-353.
[38] Rymer, _Foedera_, II, 1, pp. 203-205.
[39] _Kalendars and Inventories of the Exchequer_, III, p. 137.
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