Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Almost impatiently, however, when great gems are discussed, everyone
turns from the other precious stones to talk of diamonds. At the Crystal
Palace Exhibition in London, the pride of Prince Albert in 1851, stones
of all sorts were on view. The collection of gems from India, the great
subcontinent that was soon to change the Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland into an Empire, was stupendous. Queen Victoria noted in her
diary: “The girdle of nineteen emeralds is beautiful, all set round with
diamonds and fringed with pearls. The rubies are even more wonderful
and one is the biggest in the world ... I shall certainly make them
Crown Jewels.” Among the pieces exhibited by the lapidaries of Calcutta
were strange creations never seen in the western world before: gowries
(“blackamoors’ teeth”), golden gothas, ferozahs, a gallobund set with
diamonds, and other wonders that have since fallen out of the dictionary.
There were also educational exhibits, new and world-shaking inventions
like Nasmyth’s steam-propelled engine, the Folkestone express locomotive,
and McCormack’s reaping machine from America. But the gaping crowd passed
by all these prizes to gather and stare before the diamonds.
_The Diamonds_
There were diamonds for which there should have been automation to count
the value. The great collection of Henry Thomas Hope and his son was
displayed, all the glory of their Hope chest, including the mysterious
blue stone that came to be called the Hope diamond. There on white velvet
lay the great Black Diamond of Bahia, weighing 350 carats, so hard that
no one had been able to shape it with facets. And there, not far from a
replica of the ship that had just brought it from India, was shown for
the first time in England what the catalogue called “the great diamond of
Runjeet Singh called the Mountain of Light or the Koh-in-noor.” This is
what the millions came to see. (They were disappointed by the sight, for
the diamond had been poorly cut and did not reveal all its brilliance.)
The Kohinoor lay on a velvet cushion in an iron bird cage on an iron
pedestal. When the doors of the Crystal Palace closed each night, wheels
began to turn, and the bird cage descended into the pedestal. Safe from
all the itching fingers of international thiefdom, the Kohinoor rested in
its cage.
_The Kohinoor_
Mountain of light! The Kohinoor. First worn in the crown, perhaps, of a
great ruler in India five thousand years ago. The Koh-i-nur, or Mountain
of Light, was next heard of as a great companion to the Darya-i-Nor, the
Sea of Light, in the scabbard of Afrasiab around 3,000 B.C. Such are the
fabulous stones of ancient times, which Tennyson called
—Jewels five words long,
That on the stretched forefinger of all Time
Sparkle forever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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