Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
For almost forty years the Sancy’s story is hidden. In 1828 it turned
up in hands that sold it to Prince Demidoff of Russia, husband of the
Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. Many of this Princess’
jewels were designed by Louis François Cartier, whose creations she made
popular at the court of the Empress Eugénie, thus giving impetus to the
young House of Cartier.
But at this point the story of the Sancy Diamond takes a double path.
Sold to the Maharajah of Patiala and set in platinum, it remains part of
the treasure of the land from which it first came. So goes the story. But
either the Sancy diamond or a mysterious twin is worn by the former Nancy
Langhorne of Virginia, now Lady Astor.
What further wars such gems may survive, and what owners they may be
cherished by, in the coming centuries, future historians may tell.
_Out of the Earth_
From the dull earth comes the bright sparkle of the diamond. Early
prospectors, as gold-hunters panned the streams, sifted the surface
gravel. When likely spots were located, men and machines began to dig. At
Kimberly, the mine shaft is more than 3500 feet deep. One diamond may be
secured for each 21 million parts of ore; but gem diamonds in the larger
sizes are so much more rare than industrials or gems in the smaller sizes
that more than 250 tons must be mined to yield a stone that can be cut
and polished into a one-carat gem.
A purchaser, at the end of this arduous searching, must see to the four
C’s of diamond value. First the weight in carats. Although more labor
goes into the preparing of five one-carat gems than of one five-carat
gem, the single large stone is worth more than the sum of the five.
Comparatively few rough diamonds can be effectively cut into large-carat
stones.
Second, the clarity. A flawless gem, by official standard, is one in
which no imperfection is visible to the trained eye under tenth-power
magnification. Such a stone can be shaped to fullest brilliance.
Third, the color. Rarest is the pure colorless diamond, together with the
flawless blue. Slightly yellowish tints are in disfavor, but red again
is extremely rare and highly valued. Of all, the colorless, or white,
diamond, is most likely to be richly responsive to light.
Fourth, the cut. Not merely how well does the particular cut—brilliant,
marquise, rose, and the rest—become the diamond; but, whatever the
cutting, how well was it made? That is the pertinent question. And
perhaps there should be added to this the matter of the setting—the
degree to which the finished jewel sets off, displays and enhances the
precious stone.
When these qualities are properly present, when a choice gem in a fine
jewel adorns a fair lady, then one may truly say, in every sense, that
all beholders are privileged to look upon beauty in jewels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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