Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
The pearl ring is often enhanced by the effect of flanking diamonds. A
white pearl against white skin sometimes calls for added light or color.
By proper design, with well chosen accompanying stones, a pearl may be
made to look lighter or darker, larger and more luminous.
I once had a client with a large grey pearl that was not dark enough
for her taste. As she was a motion picture star, moreover, she had to
be concerned with how the jewel would photograph. I suggested mounting
the pearl in a high setting with a background of baguette diamonds. The
brilliance of the diamonds caught and reflected the shadings of the
pearl, both adding to the depth of its color and increasing the quality
of its lustrous tones. It enhanced the lightness of the actress’s skin
and in her photographs stood out as a most striking jewel.
_The Black Pearl_
Beyond all other combinations, the white pearl stands in superb contrast
with the black. The grey pearl also makes an interesting counterbalance
with the white, but the effects of the rare black pearl are unique. Crown
jewels of almost every kingdom, active or in exile, include a design
utilizing the values of the white pearl with the black.
Until recent years, the black pearl was the most sought after of all
its kind, and wise women today are again appreciating its values. There
is no more dramatic accent than the dark lustre of a black pearl against
a fair skin. The most striking use I ever saw of such a contrast was at
a party when Marlene Dietrich commanded every eye. She had asked me to
design a ring for her with three large pearls, one black, one white, one
pink. For her beautiful hand I mounted the three pearls high and set them
against round and baguette diamonds. Shortly after the ring was finished,
I saw Marlene at the party. She wore a simple dress, high-necked and
long-sleeved. With sure discrimination she wore very few jewels:
earrings, of which one was a white pearl, one was a black; and the pearl
ring. The striking ensemble could not have been better displayed.
There can be great dramatic value in a single pearl.
_Decorative Rings_
Most of the rings a woman wears, of course, are purely decorative without
symbolism or intent beyond the enhancing of her beauty. The variety of
such rings is infinite, and the range allows wide choice, no matter what
the personality and taste of the wearer.
The little finger is often favored for a decorative ring, and certain
flower motifs are attractive there. Such a ring should be comparatively
small; the little finger must border the hand with a straight line. This
ring requires careful fitting so that it will not turn to the side. Women
who are active or who move their hands a lot while talking should avoid
the pinkie ring, as delicate settings may be damaged by frequent knocks.
_Matched With Earclips_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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