Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Misery, they say—or at least Shakespeare said—acquaints a man with
strange bedfellows; and democracy acquaints a woman with strange
costumes. The variety of “casual clothes” is limited only by the panorama
of color and the ingenuity of the designer. Yet, whatever garments a
woman may have chosen to put on, the probability is that she will wish to
add to their harmony the grace notes of a jewel.
Informal clothes are usually worn for informal hours, which naturally
call for a touch of ornament. Festive occasions even more strongly
suggest the glamour of jewels. Yet in no field are women more at a loss
than in the etiquette of jewelry. Few need to inquire about the proper
combinations of outfits and accessories. It is unnecessary to caution the
young girl, putting on her first evening gown, that she must not wear
her sport shoes. No more need her mother be told not to serve canapés
wearing the kitchen apron she put on while preparing them. But when it
comes to jewelry, to selecting the jewels that are appropriate to the
occasion, most women have only the haziest idea. Yet if they discover
that they are not adorned in keeping with the function, their day is
clouded.
_En Route_
In traveling, by plane or even by train for a weekend in the country,
only tailored jewelry should be worn. Large diamond pieces are definitely
out of bounds, even in the subdued hum of a dining car. I repeat that the
one exception, now and forever, is the combination of the engagement ring
and the wedding ring. This is always as appropriate as pleasant.
_Country Weekend_
If the journey takes a woman to be a guest for the weekend, it is wise
for her to ascertain her hostess’s plans. While there may be in store
a restful time of relaxation, when one may make oneself at home and do
as one wishes, it may also be that the hostess has made certain plans.
She may have invited friends for a cocktail party, or a garden party, to
meet the visitor. There may even be a formal dinner party in prospect, in
honor of the guest—who must, of course, be prepared with clothes and with
jewelry to match the occasion, and do her hostess justice.
_The Garden Party_
Given in the summer, usually out of the city, a garden party is a
lighthearted affair. Short dinner gowns, colorful cocktail dresses or
separates are best enhanced by jewels of light texture. Jewelry of
twisted gold wire conveys this effect; or the gold wire used as setting
for diamond or pearls. Like the flowers in colorful profusion around,
jewels with stones of different colors are in good taste, providing
of course that the colors are in harmony. An all-white costume will
not do justice to diamonds; if a woman looks attractive in white, she
should wear with it colored stones or pearls. Sapphires, however, may be
combined with diamonds, most pleasantly with a fair complexion; on a dark
beauty there should be rubies and diamonds set in gold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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