John and Betty's History VisitWilliamson, Margaret
History
John and Betty's History Visit
Williamson, Margaret
England -- Description and travel
After breakfasting at Winchester the following morning, an early train
carried the party to the town of Salisbury, there to see the fairest
of the English cathedrals,--that is, in Mrs. Pitt's opinion, of
course.
To say that Salisbury Cathedral stands in the center of a velvet-like
lawn, to mention the fact that a little stream flows musically by, to
add that the towers and lines of the building itself are wonderfully
graceful, is attempting to describe things as they exist, but wholly
inadequate in the impression which it gives to the reader. There is an
indescribable fascination about Salisbury Cathedral, which a person
must see to understand. Any one who is at all responsive to the charm
of great architecture, can sit for hours under the old trees on the
little common, and drink in the whole scene,--the beautiful building
with its delicate shapes outlined in shadows upon the green grass.
"No doubt it is a generally accepted fact that Lincoln is the finest
of the English cathedrals," Mrs. Pitt explained after a time. "Perhaps
Durham comes next in line, and Canterbury has great historical
interest. I only assert that to me Salisbury is the most beautiful.
You know, Betty, that the construction of most cathedrals was extended
over many years,--even many generations, usually. Salisbury was an
exception to that rule, for it was begun and finished within forty
years (1220 to 1260), and therefore has rare harmony and uniformity of
style."
There are many quaint streets and buildings in the town of Salisbury,
but these become familiar though always delightful sights to the
visitor who gives a good share of his time to old England. Having
noted the old-fashioned King's Arms Inn, which was a secret
meeting-place of the Royalists after the battle of Worcester, the
party had an early lunch, and then set out to drive the ten miles to
Stonehenge.
The road which they took begins to ascend gradually, and after about a
mile and a half brought them to the high mound which was once "the
largest entrenched camp in the kingdom," according to Betty's
leather-covered Baedeker. This was the site of Old Sarum, a fort
during the Roman occupation, and afterwards a Saxon town. Numerous
interesting remains of the camp are here, and the high elevation
affords an excellent view of Salisbury and the surrounding country.
The rest of the drive was not particularly enjoyable. A sharp wind
blew over the high Salisbury Plains, which are bare and not very
picturesque to see. In the center of this great stretch of plain
stands that strange relic of the past known as Stonehenge. Being on an
elevation, the stones stand out weirdly against the sky as the visitor
approaches, and give him a foretaste of the peculiar mystery which
pervades the place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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