John and Betty's History VisitWilliamson, Margaret
History
John and Betty's History Visit
Williamson, Margaret
England -- Description and travel
At Clovelly, the summer twilights are very long and lovely, and down
on the breakwater our friends enjoyed this one to the full. One might
look over the blue expanse of bay and see the faint outlines of the
coast of Wales, and then turn and gaze at the picturesque harbor and
the quaint, hanging village, in the houses of which, lights were
slowly beginning to twinkle, one after another. They stayed until it
was quite dark, and were even then loath to wend their way up the
steep street, and to waste so many hours by going to bed in the
"Doll's House," as John persisted in calling the New Inn.
"Well," said Betty comfortingly, "it will be fun after all,--sleeping
in that funny wee inn, where there are only four bedrooms in the whole
house. I choose the one with the pink rose peeping in the window! I
saw it this morning. Come on."
The next day dawned as fair as one could wish, and at Mrs. Pitt's
suggestion a walk along the "Hobby Drive" was first taken. This
charming road was built by a Mr. Hamlin, the owner of the town of
Clovelly, who lives at Clovelly Court. The drive starts just at the
top of the village, and extends for three miles along the edge of the
cliffs. The views are startlingly beautiful! Through the fresh green
of the trees and vines, glimpses of the deep blue sea are to be had,
and to add to the vivid coloring, there is the peculiar red rock which
belongs to that part of the coast.
As they were retracing their steps, Mrs. Pitt said with slight
hesitation:
"I promise not to give you very much history while you are here, but I
must tell you just a bit about the relation which all this country
bears to Charles Kingsley's great book, 'Westward Ho!' Have you never
read it, John? Fancy! I'll get it for you at once! Well, Bideford is
the nearest town to Clovelly, and it was from there that Amyas Leigh,
Salvation Yeo, and all the rest set out with Sir Francis Drake. By the
by, that very sailor, Salvation Yeo, was born in the old Red Lion Inn,
at the foot of the Clovelly street. Oh, you'd like him, John, and all
his brave adventures! At Clovelly Court, in the days of the story,
lived Will Cary, another of the well-known characters in 'Westward
Ho!,' and in the little parish church very near there, Charles
Kingsley's father was rector. Kingsley himself was at Clovelly a great
deal, and probably gained here his knowledge of the seas and those who
sail them. One of those old fishermen last night (he who claimed to be
ninety-eight) told me that he used to know Charles Kingsley well, and
I suppose it is possible."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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