Journal 02, 1850-September 15, 1851: The Writings of Henry David Thoreau, Volume 08 (of 20)Thoreau, Henry David
Religion
Journal 02, 1850-September 15, 1851: The Writings of Henry David Thoreau, Volume 08 (of 20)
Thoreau, Henry David
Authors, American -- 19th century -- Diaries; Thoreau, Henry David, 1817-1862 -- Diaries
_Jan. 2._ Saw at Clinton last night a room at the gingham-mills which
covers one and seven-eighths acres and contains 578 looms, not to speak
of spindles, both throttle and mule. The rooms all together cover three
acres. They were using between three and four hundred horse-power, and
kept an engine of two hundred horse-power, with a wheel twenty-three
feet in diameter and a band ready to supply deficiencies, which have
not often occurred. Some portion of the machinery—I think it was where
the cotton was broken up, lightened up, and mixed before being matted
together—revolved eighteen hundred times in a minute.
I first saw the pattern room where patterns are made by a hand loom.
There were two styles of warps ready for the woof or filling. The
operator must count the threads of the woof, which in the mill is done
by the machinery. It was the ancient art of weaving, the shuttle flying
back and forth, putting in the filling. As long as the warp is the
same, it is but one “style,” so called.
The cotton should possess a long staple and be clean and free from
seed. The Sea Island cotton has a long staple and is valuable for
thread. Many bales are thoroughly mixed to make the goods of one
quality. The cotton is then torn to pieces and thoroughly lightened
up by cylinders armed with hooks and by fans; then spread, a certain
weight on a square yard, and matted together, and torn up and matted
together again two or three times over; then the matted cotton fed
to a cylindrical card, a very thin web of it, which is gathered into
a copper trough, making six (the six-card machines) flat, rope-like
bands, which are united into one at the railway head and drawn. And
this operation of uniting and drawing or stretching goes on from one
machine to another until the thread is spun, which is then dyed (calico
is printed after being woven),—having been wound off on to reels and so
made into skeins,—dyed and dried by steam; then, by machinery, wound
on to spools for the warp and the woof. From a great many spools the
warp is drawn off over cylinders and different-colored threads properly
mixed and arranged. Then the ends of the warp are drawn through the
harness of the loom by hand. The operator knows the succession of
red, blue, green, etc., threads, having the numbers given her, and
draws them through the harness accordingly, keeping count. Then the
woof is put in, or it is _woven_!! Then the inequalities or nubs are
picked off by girls. If _they_ discover any imperfection, they tag it,
and if necessary the wages of the weaver are reduced. Now, I think,
it is passed over a red-hot iron cylinder, and the fuzz singed off,
then washed with wheels with cold water; then the water forced out by
centrifugal force within horizontal wheels. Then it is starched, the
ends stitched together by machinery; then stretched smooth, dried, and
ironed by machinery; then measured, folded, and packed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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