Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and EducationAllies, T. W. (Thomas William)
Religion
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education
Allies, T. W. (Thomas William)
France -- Church history -- 19th century; Italy -- Church history -- 19th century
_Paris. Windsor Hotel, Rue de Rivoli, July 18. 1848._--I have been
nine days in France, and the kindness of friends has not left me an
hour to put down my thoughts. Yet assuredly, in so utter a change of
one's usual habits and sights, the mind has been more affected than
during many weeks of sedentary occupations. But when one has been
profoundly moved either by a religious service, or a conversation, or
place or building, it is a great effort to sit down, collect one's
thoughts, and turn one's eyes inward on oneself. Generally, too, by
the end of the day we were so fatigued that such an effort became
physically impossible.
We left Southampton at five P.M., on Saturday, the 8th July. A good
deal of wind, and sea rough. Passed off Portsmouth the fleet of ten
men-of-war, one three decker, St. Vincent, 104 guns; four two deckers;
and five frigates. Most majestic they looked unmoved amid the
freshening waves. I can never see a ship of war without my heart
bounding. Byron has exactly expressed one's feeling:--
"She walks the waters like a thing of life,
And seems to dare the elements to strife."
At five we found ourselves on the quai at Havre. The douane here is so
polite as to keep one's luggage till eight o'clock--a kindness which
is carried still further by the police, as the visa of passports does
not commence till eleven. So I proposed to walk to the beautiful
Norman church of Graville, the pendant of our own St. Cross, half way
up that delightful côte which looks down on the embouchure of the
Seine, and the high coast of Honfleur and Caen. The view from the
terrace of the old Priory is most charming; and behind the church a
most picturesque cemetery stretches up the steep hill. There is a
perfect cross a little to the west of the church, which is very
pleasing. We found the church empty, and said our English office
before one of the altars. I do not like the effect of two windows in
the apse, which symbolise, I suppose, the Two Natures, but otherwise
this church is a beautiful specimen of a Norman parish church.
However, its nave has been recently defiled by most protestant-looking
pews; and under the tower, just before the chancel, there actually is
to be seen a squireen's pew, with a table and cloth in it. The chapel
and image of the Blessed Virgin were the most pleasing. At three we
went on to Ivetot, and found a most kind welcome from our
friends. They lodged us in a house they have lately purchased, in
their garden, where, for the first time in my life, I had the honour
of a silver bason and ewer. We supped in the refectory, at a table in
the middle, with M. le Supérieur. Silence is kept at the meals, and
one of the pupils reads from a pulpit on one side. The pupils act as
servants in turn during the meal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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