Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and EducationAllies, T. W. (Thomas William)
Religion
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education
Allies, T. W. (Thomas William)
France -- Church history -- 19th century; Italy -- Church history -- 19th century
words not Italian which he had spoken; and so we left him much
gratified, and with the prospect of another visit on Monday. We were
several hours in the cathedral yesterday; and at five this morning
mounted to see the early morning view outside. The view, when clear,
is most wondrous, embracing the range of Alps for a couple of hundred
miles. This morning it was only partially open, just to the north, but
still very fine. Shelley's lines on the Euganean Hills are most
thoroughly Italian, and render the scene, so far as words can:--
"Beneath is spread, like a green sea,
The waveless plain of Lombardy,
Bounded by the vaporous air,
Islanded by cities fair;
Underneath day's azure eyes,
Ocean's nursling, Venice, lies," &c.
As for describing the building inside or out, it is utterly vain to
attempt it. Suffice it to say, that the greatest of all Gothic
cathedrals must be allowed to be a beautiful bastard, full of
inconsistencies and irregularities, and even serious faults, yet so
grand and profoundly religious, that one gives up all criticism in
disgust. As we walked on the marble roof this morning, and watched
that multitude of aerial pinnacles so clearly defined against the cool
blue sky, I thought it would be as utterly beyond Walter Scott or
Victor Hugo, or any other master of human language, as it was beyond
me, to convey to one who never saw it any idea of this building. Human
language, then, being an instrument confessedly so poor and weak, what
extreme folly it is to rest upon it in religious mysteries; to think
that we can penetrate into realities by its aid, when we cannot even
describe the objects of sense. If Milan cathedral be indescribable, it
would be strange indeed if words could exhibit the mystery of the
Trinity. We must wait for intuition before we approach eternal things;
that is, we must be beyond the bounds of time ere we can comprehend
what does not exist in time. Prayers may be said to be always going
on, at least during the day, here; as we entered, a Mass was already
proceeding: there is a succession of them from dawn till noon. I
confess I prefer one daily celebration, at which all who are
disposed, especially clergy, should assist, not merely as reverencing
the mystery, (which, however, is far and far beyond our manner of
neglecting it,) but as partaking of it. On the other hand, this mode
sets forth a continual worship; the building itself seems a perpetual
offering made to God; by day and night it pleads the Passion of His
Son and the graces of His saints. I do not know whether this mute
intercession is most striking when it is crowded with worshippers, or
when, as we saw it at eight last night, two single lamps twinkled in
its immense obscurity, and the last light of day was feebly visible
through the coloured windows. As we were standing thus under the
lantern, we heard a voice at the other end of the church, "_si
chiude, si chiude_." One could hardly help wishing to stay there the
night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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