Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and EducationAllies, T. W. (Thomas William)
Religion
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education
Allies, T. W. (Thomas William)
France -- Church history -- 19th century; Italy -- Church history -- 19th century
I do not know whether I said anything about writing to you before I
left England, but I feel persuaded that you must be sufficiently
interested in our peregrinations to justify me in inflicting a letter
upon you. P. tells me he wrote from Paris, up to which time he has
doubtless given you full particulars, and from which point I shall
take up the chronicle of our movements. We left Paris on the 9th of
July, after having been much pleased and interested by what we had
seen there, and came by a forced march (and in hot weather a severe
one) in the malle poste to Lyons on S. Irenæus' Day, but, by an
unfortunate delay, too late to see the archbishop officiate in the
church, and according to the rite of his patron and predecessor. At
Lyons we took the Rhone, and steamed to Avignon (the scenery quite
equal in my opinion to that of the Rhine), where we stayed for
four hours, endeavouring, in spite of heat and some fatigue, to call
up visions of French popes, disconsolate Petrarch, or the devout Laura
with her green gown and well bound missal gliding towards the church
of St. Clair. At last we were hurried off to Aix, and finally to
Marseilles, where we just hit upon the moment of departure of the
Neapolitan packet, which after coasting along the beauties of the
Cornice road landed us at Genoa, where we pitched our tent to rest for
a few days. We had a letter to Padre Giordano at the Jesuits' College.
He began by a most polemical conversation with Allies on the "Tu es
Petrus," &c., but afterwards dropped the subject altogether; he was
exceedingly civil, offered us every information we needed, and gave us
access to every thing we wanted to see. In this manner I found Genoa
far more interesting than I had expected. It is a most beautiful and
most Italian city, and has, as to outward appearance, lost nothing of
its character in the days of the republic; and its institutions for
the support and relief of the poor, the sick, and the religious, gave
an additional source of interest beyond that for which I was prepared.
From Genoa we came by Pavia to Milan, where we staid five days: for a
city so celebrated and so important in ancient times it is remarkable
and much to be regretted that its ancient character is so completely
lost. Milan is now quite a modern city, with the exception of a
very few solitary buildings; the cathedral itself, wonderful as a
structure, and beautiful to the end of the chapter, is quite
indefensible in the eyes of a thorough-going Goth, and is after all
only a very successful vagary of a bastard style. The beauty of the
material, the exquisite finish of the sculpture, and fine proportions
of individual parts, with the costly and vast effect of the whole, do
however quite disarm one's critical inclinations, and the interior is
(as we saw it on Sunday last with the choir filled by the scarlet
robes of the chapter of the cardinal see, and the nave almost filled
by people of every sex and station,) one of the grandest I know, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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