Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and EducationAllies, T. W. (Thomas William)
Religion
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education
Allies, T. W. (Thomas William)
France -- Church history -- 19th century; Italy -- Church history -- 19th century
Venice, August 5. 1847.
MY DEAR ----.
* * * We staid at Verona one clear day: it has very interesting
churches, and a noble river, the Adige, "exulting and abounding," as
Byron says; and many Shakspearian associations, besides very quaint
and mediæval bits of architecture. But my time is waxing short, and a
greater attraction was near. So yesterday we _squudged_ ourselves
into a merciless omnibus, which carried twelve insiders thirty miles
in the space of six hours to the railway at Vicenza; and the said
railway brought us on just in time to reach Venice by the last light
of day. Very striking indeed is the approach to Venice, on a bridge
two miles long over the Lagune, very striking because so appropriate
to a city which is like no other. The evening was unfavourable, for it
rained, which has scarcely happened to us before; notwithstanding, our
excitement was great; I do not think I have felt so much curiosity
about a place since I entered Rome nearly thirteen years ago, and
could scarcely believe I was there. Though a great part of to-day has
been rainy Venice does not disappoint me. The Doge's palace, the
piazza, and piazzetta of St. Mark, and his church, are quite unique;
so is the great canal, with its host of middle age palaces. We have
been to-day both in the pozzi and the piombi, the ancient
prisons of the republic, the former terrible for their darkness, the
latter for their heat; both seldom disgorging the prisoner save to
death; and what a death, at least in its circumstances, and in the
case of political offenders. The cells were all cased in wood, with
hardly any light; but when the criminal in politics had confessed his
fault, and was condemned, he was transferred to another cell in the
middle of the night, a foreign priest was admitted, received his
confession, and absolved him. The priest issued from the cell, and
turned to the left, the criminal to the right, and rounding a corner
not a yard off, was placed on a seat, a cord passed round the neck,
and strangled. Behind the seat a door opened, a gondola received his
corpse (for it is just at the level of the water), carried it to the
cemetery, and no one, wife or child, knew more of his destiny than
this: that the invisible inquisition of state had laid its hand upon
him, and that he _was not_. I said to the old guide, who had a fine
Venetian head, "I suppose you do not regret not living in those
times?" "But _I do_ regret it," he replied; "Venice was then a
republic; there was more commerce, and life was easier; and it was
just owing to her wise treatment of criminals that she maintained
herself so long; and had she kept that treatment to the end, she would
not have fallen: mine was a very ancient Venetian family. It is to
foreigners," he added, "that I say all this; writers have
greatly exaggerated about these prisons." As I stood on a spot at
which hundreds of human beings, during the long course of that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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