Journal of a Cavalry Officer; Including the Memorable Sikh Campaign of 1845-1846Humbley, W. W. W. (William Wellington Waterloo)
History
Journal of a Cavalry Officer; Including the Memorable Sikh Campaign of 1845-1846
Humbley, W. W. W. (William Wellington Waterloo)
India -- Description and travel; Sikh War, 1845-1846
It is customary with the natives to build on rising spots of ground,
because such localities are more healthy, and can be easily drained.
Benares is seen to great advantage from Ramnuggur, on the opposite bank
of the Ganges. Its appearance is strikingly grand and picturesque; the
ground is covered with buildings even to the water's edge, and some of
the ghâts, which are constructed of large blocks of red chunar-stone,
have a flight of thirty or forty steps leading down to the river. Here
a most animated scene generally presents itself. Men and women, boys
and girls, may be seen bathing early in the morning, and evening, and,
during the cold season, also in the middle of the day; for the cold
does not deter even the gentler sex from adventuring into the river.
Hither, too, resort the girls and young women of Benares, to fetch
water from the sacred stream. Their figures are elegant and their
stature erect. They all carry two or three water-pots on their heads,
each successive pot being smaller than the one beneath it. Having
dipped them into the stream, and filled them with water, they replace
them upon their heads, and return homewards. This habit of carrying
their gharahs, or jars, filled with water, from their early youth, may
account, in a great measure, for their graceful carriage. They balance
their pitchers so equally as not even to require any assistance from
the hand. The sight of these women, with their water-pots, powerfully
recalls to mind passages in Holy Writ;[99] and many of them refer
to periods of so ancient a date, that we cannot avoid coming to the
conclusion that the Hindoos are a people of great antiquity.
As I ascended into the city, I found the streets so exceedingly
narrow that it was difficult to penetrate them, even on horseback.
The houses are crowded close to each other, with turrets rising from
their terraced roofs. They are built of stone, and some of them are
six stories high. The windows are always extremely small, to keep
the apartments cool, as the natives suppose, as well as to prevent
their neighbours from looking in, for the opposite sides of the street
approach very closely to each other, and, in some places, are united by
galleries. The natives in eastern countries generally sleep on their
flat roofs, in the verandah, or even in front of their dwellings. Here,
again, the Bible illustrates the practice of sleeping on the roofs.
According to an old Brahminical legend, Benares was originally built of
fine gold; but, owing to the depravity of its inhabitants, the gold was
converted into stone; and as they degenerated more and more, the houses
were transformed into brick and mud.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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