Journal of a cruise of the United States schooner Dolphin, among the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and a visit to the Mulgrave Islands, in pursuit of the mutineers of the whaleship GlobePaulding, Hiram
History
Journal of a cruise of the United States schooner Dolphin, among the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and a visit to the Mulgrave Islands, in pursuit of the mutineers of the whaleship Globe
Paulding, Hiram
Oceania -- Description and travel
After we had interchanged salutes with the shore, chief Boque came on
board on the 17th, to make us a visit of ceremony. He was dressed in
a splendid English major-general's uniform, and made a very handsome
appearance. He remained and partook of a collation with us, at which
several gentlemen were invited to meet him, and in all respects
acquitted himself in a more polite and becoming manner than could
have been expected from one whose opportunities had been so limited.
He drank sparingly of wine, and left us at an early hour,
notwithstanding the solicitations of the company for him to remain.
A few hours after he had landed, I met him again, and should hardly
have recognized him but for his large stature and good-natured face.
He had stripped himself of all his finery, and was walking over the
plain from his house with nothing on but his marrow, and a piece of
tappa cloth of the island thrown loosely over his shoulders. I asked
him why he had taken off his uniform, to which he replied, that it
was too warm.
Our countrymen, to vary the entertainments they were constantly
giving us, and thereby make them the more acceptable, proposed that
we should make an excursion to a valley, called by them Pearl River,
from the pearl frequently found in a small stream that passes through
it. As horses could not be obtained for all, part of the company
went by water, whilst the rest, four or five, mounted on horseback.
The distance was about fifteen miles. I made one of the land party,
and we set off early in the afternoon. There was no road, and in
many places not even a footpath. The whole way was over hill and
dale, and through swamps. We had to jump fences and ditches made
through tarrow-patches, and ascend by narrow paths, difficult and
dangerous cliffs. All the afternoon was occupied in this manner, and
it was sundown when we arrived at our place of destination. One old
native made bold to oppose us in jumping our horses over his fence,
and was so obstinate in his refusal to let us pass, that for a time
we thought we should have to relinquish our excursion--a reflection
not very agreeable, after having advanced more than half way over so
wretched a road. Finally, when all other arguments had failed, some
one of the party, thinking that the native opposed our trespass upon
his premises with no other object than to lay us under contribution,
gave him half a dollar, which did more for us than all our threats or
persuasion. Instead of opposing, he afterwards pointed out to us the
best way. From Onavoora to Pearl River, the country was thinly
inhabited. We met with no considerable village or rich valley. Our
road lay near the edge of a wide marsh, that intervened between us
and the sea, in the opposite direction from which, an undulating
country extended three or four miles, when it was interrupted by the
high and uninhabited range of mountains that run through the centre
of the island from one end to the other. It was Saturday evening,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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