About two hours after starting, the great tower of the chief
mosque came into view, and one of our soldiers rode on ahead to
announce our approach. Not long afterwards we met a courier bound
for Mogador with letters for Mr. Carstensen, and we took the
opportunity of reporting progress and sending him a few details
as to our journey. In default of regular postal communication,
which is not to be thought of in such a country, the facility
for forwarding letters in Marocco is far greater than could be
expected. For a few shillings a native is easily induced to make
a journey of many days, and take care of letters, which always
reach their destination. The reverence with which Mohammedan people
generally regard all written communications—which may perchance
contain the name of Allah—serves as a protection so effectual,
that the loss of letters and despatches is scarcely ever heard
of. These couriers travel forty or even fifty miles a day, and
after a day’s rest are ready to return to the place whence they
came. The chief object of Mr. Carstensen’s letter to Marocco
had been to recommend us to the good offices of some wealthy and
influential Moors, correspondents of English mercantile houses,
and we were not long before experiencing the benefit of this piece
of kindly attention.
The heat of the sun was much felt as we rode over the open plain,
and it was suggested that we should do well to halt awhile, and
await the return of the soldier who was to report to us the state
of affairs in the city. The only spot on the way affording the
slightest shelter is under the reclining trunk of a fine tree of
_Tamarix articulata_, which had apparently been blown down, though
still adhering to the ground by its roots, and throwing out vigorous
shoots and branches. The remaining portion of the trunk was 24 feet
long, and at 8 feet from the roots the girth was 7 feet 7 inches
(2·32 m.) We saw no other specimen of this tree, characteristic of
the semi-tropical region of Northern Africa; but our opportunities
for exploring the country surrounding the city were very limited,
and it seems probable that it is here indigenous, though the extreme
scarcity of fuel may have led to its partial extermination. The
slender twigs into which the branches are divided gave no protection
from the sun; but, by throwing a carpet overhead, we extemporised a
serviceable roof, whose shade was most welcome. Though bare to the
eye, this part of the plain produced many small herbaceous plants,
such as _Notoceras canariensis_, our native _Coronopus Ruellii_,
_Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum_, and _Schismus calycinus_. The
_Mesembryanthemum_ is as common here as it is in the East; but the
last-named grass, so characteristic of the skirts of the desert in
Egypt and Arabia, seems to be rare in South Marocco.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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