During all this time we had remained grimly sitting on horseback, no
way anxious, until it should be quite necessary, to commit ourselves
for the night to the unpleasant accompaniments that surrounded us;
but there was no longer any choice, and the order was given to
pitch the large tent and unload the baggage.
During the interval we had been much struck by the demeanour
of the people, who had from time to time passed by as we stood
grouped together in this most public place of the city. Whether
in obedience to orders, or from a spontaneous desire to display
their utter indifference as to the doings of the infidels, no one
paid the slightest attention, or even turned a head to notice us
or our proceedings. Even the very boys engaged in some rough play
when we first arrived on the square showed the same ostentatious
disregard—in striking contrast to the eager curiosity of the Arab
children in Algeria and the East, who will sit for hours together
watching every movement of European travellers. By this time,
however, the night had closed in, and the great square was silent
and dark before our large tent was pitched and the baggage brought
under cover.
Soon after there appeared a train of men bearing dishes—the evening
_mona_—along with twenty-four soldiers sent by El Graoui to guard
our camp during the night, and about half-past 9 we were able to
get the rather long delayed evening meal and discuss our further
prospects and proceedings. While thus engaged the sound of angry
voices outside the tent interrupted conversation; it was evident
that a violent altercation was going on, in which many voices
took part. When all was again quiet, we ascertained the cause of
the row. Ten soldiers sent by Ben Daoud as a guard for the night
had come to take their places round the camp, when they found the
ground already occupied. El Graoui’s men warned them off, telling
them they had no business there, and when the others insisted on
remaining to carry out their master’s orders the first comers
threatened to thrash them if they did not immediately depart. Peace
was re-established when Ben Daoud’s men retired to the farther
end of the square behind the great mosque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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