Some time after midnight, after finishing our customary task in
laying out our collections of the day, which had been much smaller
than usual, we sallied out to view the surrounding scene. The
moon stood high in the cloudless sky, wherein there was so little
vapour that the stars seemed scarcely dimmed by her brilliancy. The
great tower, stark against the black vault, appeared gigantic in its
proportions as it looked down on the strange scene below. The noises
of the city—even the howling of the dogs—were for the moment
completely stilled; our camels, horses, mules, and asses lay resting
after their day’s work, and amongst them the sleeping figures of
our men, wrapped up in white _haïks_ or _jellabias_, looked weird
and ghostly in the moonlight. The distinctness with which we heard
the occasional whispers of the guards around our camp served only
to make the deep silence of the night the more impressive.
On this night the advantages of a tent of what is known as the Alpine
Club pattern, where the floor is made of canvas continuous with the
sides, and the entrance is closed by a flap rising about a foot from
the ground, were shown in a striking way. In the great tent, where
the ground underfoot was pierced with scorpion holes and swarming
with insects, Hooker and Maw did not venture to undress, and had
to pass the night perched upon the baggage, while Ball was able to
spread his mattress regardless of the creatures that might be moving
about under the canvas floor. When his tent was struck next morning
the ground underneath was absolutely covered with a continuous mass
of creeping things, yet not a single insect entered the tent.
When we all rose betimes on the morning of the 4th, we felt
that this must be a decisive day in our contest with the Moorish
authorities. At an early hour Hooker despatched two messengers, one
to the Viceroy, requesting an interview, the other to Mr. Hunot,
begging him to use his local knowledge and influence to make sure
that the request should reach the Viceroy. Soon after arrived a
message from Ben Daoud, saying that we were at liberty to pitch our
tents in an adjoining garden. If that offer had been made on our
first arrival, it is most likely that it would have been accepted;
but, as it was now clear that Ben Daoud was intent on yielding as
little as possible, Hooker wisely resolved to insist on the demand
which he had made on the previous evening, and returned an answer
in nearly the same terms as before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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