The house or palace of Ben Dreis, which we were to inhabit,
originally belonged to a powerful minister, whose property, after
the custom of the country, had been confiscated by the sovereign. In
1864 it was occupied by Sir Moses Montefiore; and a correct sketch
of it is given in Dr. Hodgkin’s narrative of that gentleman’s
mission of benevolence to Marocco.
We were told that a short time would be required to prepare the house
for our reception, and it turned out that the first requisite step
was to knock down the wall that stood where the entrance had formerly
been. A house in which Jews or Christians had lived was regarded
as unclean and unfit for the dwelling of a true believer, and
accordingly after the departure of Sir M. Montefiore, the entrance
had been walled up, and the house had so remained ever since. When
the way had been cleared, an escort of soldiers, despatched by the
Viceroy, accompanied us to our new dwelling, which stands inside
its walled garden very near to the Bab Roub—the gate by which we
yesterday entered the city. We were agreeably surprised when we
approached by far the finest house which we anywhere saw in this
country, a massive square building, entered by a Moorish arch. As
usual, the ground-floor rooms, with the central court, roofed in,
contrary to the usual practice, were fit only for servants, or for
stabling animals and storing goods, and the best apartments were
on the upper floor. These were, of course, destined for us. But the
first glance showed that in a country where animal, and especially
insect, life is so active, the rooms in their present state would be
no pleasant habitations. This, however, was foreseen and provided
for, and, before many minutes were over, a crowd of men, including
our own attendants, were hard at work carrying up large vessels of
water from the irrigation stream in the adjoining garden, and armed
with rough brooms, with which to complete the work of cleaning the
premises. Water was turned on in such abundance as to stand ankle
deep in most of the rooms, and pour in a copious stream down the
staircases and other openings. When all was done the blazing sun
soon dried all up, and during our stay we suffered no inconvenience,
and scarcely saw any insects, except a few harmless beetles. When
the rooms had been thus cleansed and dried, we proceeded to instal
ourselves in our new quarters. There was a large central room,
open to the sky in the middle, with roofed bays or recesses around,
and several adjoining, which served as bedrooms. The terrace roof,
overlooking the trees of our garden and the city wall, commanded a
magnificent view of the Great Atlas range, and in the early morning,
and towards sunset, afforded an unfailing attraction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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