To pass a quiet evening in our own house, free from any immediate
cause for trouble, and with the prospect of a good night’s rest,
such as we had not known since we left Mogador, was an enjoyment
keenly felt; and though our quarters were absolutely devoid of
furniture of any kind, the mere sense of quiet and freedom from
intrusion made them seem to us perfectly luxurious. The position
of our dwelling was indeed admirably chosen. Completely separated
from the inhabited quarters of the city, with their noises and
their stenches, by large gardens and high walls, the only building
within our view was the great tower of the Koutoubia. Some idea
of the effect as seen through one of our windows is given in the
accompanying woodcut. It is very similar in design and dimensions
to the Giralda at Seville and the great tower at Rabat, and like
these is said to have been built by Christian captives. Including the
lanthorn at the top, the height is about 270 feet. It is a singular
proof of the deficiency of the Moors in constructive faculty,
that the only stone structures in this, the ancient capital of the
country, once the abode of wealth and barbaric luxury, should be this
tower, and the great arch forming the entrance to the Sultan’s
palace, of which the carved stones were transported piece by piece
from Spain.
The morning of May 5 presented the unusual appearance of heavy
clouds covering the sky and concealing from view the range of the
Great Atlas. This did not last long. The sun soon reasserted his
dominion over the plain, though the clouds still hung round the
higher peaks. The direct heat of the sun was already great at this
season, but the air was always relatively cool. In the shade of
our rooms the thermometer marked about 80° Fahr. during the warmer
hours of the day, and fell to about 70° at night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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