We were led at the time to suppose that the more or less overt resistance which we encountered here and elsewhere in South Marocco, was altogether due to a fanatical dislike to Christian strangers; but we afterwards doubted whether that feeling, undoubtedly prevalent among the Moors, is equally general among the Shelluh population; and as we came to know more of the practical results of our visits to these remote valleys, the less surprised we were to know that they were unwelcome to the inhabitants. The Sultan’s order, as we learned from El Graoui, had gone forth that we were not to be put to any expense for the living of ourselves and our attendants during our journey. So far as our personal consumption went that was but trifling, as we largely relied on the provisions we had carried with us. Our attendants no doubt consumed an ample share of food at the one serious meal of the day, usually after nightfall, and were ready to set to again in the middle of the night when a good opportunity was offered; but it was the rapacity of our soldier escort that made our visit a calamity in a poor district. Not satisfied with gorging themselves with meat, cakes, and fruit, they demanded luxuries such as green tea and white sugar, and in such quantities that, as we afterwards learned, Kaïd el Hasbi used to send from each valley in which we halted a mule laden with provisions to his family in Marocco. An altercation which we heard this night, and which was repeated more than once on subsequent nights, arose from our usually pacific Mogador Kaïd, who revolted at seeing the lion’s share of the spoil taken possession of by his colleague from Marocco. On this occasion the quarrel threatened to become serious, and the long guns were actually drawn out of the red cloth cases; but it seemed that on one or both sides discretion overcame valour, as peace was ultimately restored. Our interpreter, Abraham, as a prudent man, wished not to embroil himself in these disputes, and it was only gradually that we got to learn the real mischiefs and hardships of which we were the involuntary occasion. FOOTNOTES: [Footnote 1: See Appendix C.] [Footnote 2: The reader who may desire a more detailed account of the city of Marocco than we can afford is referred to the Description and Plan of the City, by M. Paul Lambert, in the _Bulletin_ of the French Geographical Society for 1868.] [Footnote 3: See Appendix D.] [Footnote 4: As constantly happened, it was very difficult to fix the sound of this name. The accent sometimes fell on the last syllable, sometimes on the penultimate.] [Footnote 5: See Mr. Maw’s paper on the ‘Geology of Marocco.’ Appendix F.] CHAPTER VIII.