Indignant, as we were, at the rapacity of our escort, we assured
ourselves, when we came to know more of the country, that there is
a great deal of human nature among the Moors, as there is amongst
most of the people that travellers make acquaintance with, and
that the conduct of the soldiers and their officers was pretty
much what might be expected from any other men put in the same
position. The pay of a captain in the regular army is equivalent
to 4_s_. 2_d_. per month, and that of the men not nearly enough to
support life, even allowing for the frugal habits of the people. It
is only natural that when the opportunity is offered, along with
the certainty of impunity, they should make the most of it, as
they certainly do. In some places, as we afterwards learned, they
were not satisfied with the large supplies that they requisitioned,
but demanded and obtained money from the village authorities.
From the summit of the second pass, the track descends about 400
feet into a broad valley, well wooded with olive, carob, and other
cultivated trees.
Soon after seven o’clock we reached a convenient spot on flat
ground, beside a rapid stream, near a village called Tassilunt. The
scenery here was very picturesque, although we had no view of the
higher part of the chain. The nearer mountains were of a deep red
colour—probably sandstone—contrasting finely with the rich green
of trees and shrubs that covered most of the slopes. The floor of
the valley here, as in most parts of the range that we visited,
is chiefly devoted to olive cultivation, poor crops of grain being
raised beneath the trees.
The sheik of the village soon presented himself, and before long an
abundant _mona_ was brought to the tent door, and laid, according
to custom, at Hooker’s feet. Five large dishes of cooked meat
and keskossou, and piles of wheaten cakes, were designed to stay
or to whet the appetites of the party; while a sheep, twelve fowls,
fifty eggs, and five pounds of butter formed a provision for their
future wants. When it is remembered that nearly as much more cooked
food was supplied in the morning, it may be imagined that the tax
on the resources of a poor mountain village was not trifling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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