A further topic requiring some previous arrangement arose from
Maw’s desire to return to England as soon as possible, after
effecting the desired ascent to the higher region.
Our camp, which stood at 3,160 feet (963·1 m.) above the sea,
was in a pleasant and sheltered position, and the temperature
was thoroughly enjoyable. The relative coolness of the nights was
not, indeed, so remarkable here as in the plain, for the actual
temperature was pretty much the same, while that of the shade of
day, which at this season, there usually rises somewhat over 80°
Fahr., rarely exceeded 70° in the lower zone of the Great Atlas,
however powerful might be the direct rays of the sun for several
hours in each day. Towards dawn the air was usually keen, often
almost cold; and at the hour which, when possible, was selected
for observation—about one hour after sunrise—Fahrenheit’s
thermometer, as well in the plain as in the main valleys of the
Atlas, usually ranged from 56° to 60°. It will be seen that this
country, when made accessible to civilised Europe, will supply
the nearest approach yet discovered to the perfection of climate,
whether for health or enjoyment.
The morning of May 12 was in every sense a busy one. During
our afternoon ride of the day before, one of the baggage mules,
while following a narrow track along the bank of a watercourse,
had slipped into the stream, and a large parcel of Hooker’s
plants had been thoroughly soaked. Several hours of the night,
and the early morning, were consumed in repairing the damage,
by laying the plants in dry paper, and drying in the sun that
which was wet. Then came the important affair on which our hearts
were mainly set. The sheik of the Aït Mesan valley had arrived,
and it was necessary by a judicious combination of compulsion and
conciliation to secure his co-operation in our undertaking. It was
true that the orders of his superior, El Graoui, if duly conveyed
by our escort, should alone have sufficed for our purpose; but
we had already learned that, by a mutual understanding between
the treacherous El Hasbi and the local authorities, our progress
could at any moment be effectually barred. How were we to detect
and expose the falsehood of the stories that were daily trumped up,
and were seemingly accepted for truth by our own attendants?
The sheik appeared sufficiently cordial, especially when he was made
to understand that, in case we were satisfied, he should receive
a handsome present; and it was arranged that our next camp should
be fixed at a spot within reach of the snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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