The Shelluh population of the Great Atlas is strikingly different
from the Arab stock, but scarcely to be distinguished in appearance
from the cognate Bereber races, the Riff mountaineers of North
Marocco, and the Kabyles of Algeria. Long faces, of a deep sallow
complexion, high cheek-bones, eyes closely set and not so dark as
those of the Moors and Arabs, are the prevailing types. The hair
is cut short, and the use of the turban seems to be confined to the
women. The men, when they use an upper garment, wear a black cloak
or large cape of goat’s hair or camel’s hair, into which is
inserted on the back an angular patch of red woollen stuff. Their
character seems even more different from the Arab type than their
aspect. The Arab hates work, takes to it occasionally from necessity,
but passes his time so far as he can between talk, story-telling,
and song, and dreamy contemplation, in which he is helped by
the habitual use of _kief_, prepared from Indian hemp, the local
substitute for tobacco. The Shelluh, on the contrary, is active
and hardworking. He has some natural fitness and acquired skill in
agriculture. His intelligence is readier for all practical purposes;
and, in spite of difficulties of language, which generally involved
a double process of interpreting between us and the natives, we
found it much easier to obtain information on any matter of interest
than from the Arabs. Intense curiosity was always shown by them in
our proceedings, and a circle of people from the nearest village,
standing hand-in-hand, generally encompassed our camp.
During the morning Maw amused and interested the people by showing
a little practice with a small English rifle. The long flint-lock
guns and bad gunpowder used in this country form such ineffective
weapons that the people cannot conceive the possibility of every
shot telling. This accounts for the fact that in the frequent
skirmishes that arise between neighbouring tribes so little damage
is usually done. Several hundred men may spend the day in firing
at each other; a vast quantity of ammunition may be consumed; but
the list of casualties on both sides seldom exceeds half a dozen
killed and wounded.
At 11 A.M. we left our camping ground, and began to ascend the
valley, soon approaching the banks of the stream, which was
everywhere easily fordable. In places where it has cut a channel
through sandstone rock there was space to ride along the bed, and we
here found several rock-plants of some interest. The most conspicuous
was the European _Catananche cærulea_, not before seen by us,
but extremely common in the interior valleys of the Great Atlas,
growing two or three feet high in the warm zone, and dwindling to a
few inches in colder and exposed stations. Of greater interest was
_Selaginella rupestris_, a species of club-moss that makes the round
of the world in the tropics, but is very rare outside those limits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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