We passed a village where we noticed some rude oil mills; and, after
an ascent of about a thousand feet, reached the summit of the ridge
dividing the valley we had left from the long and important one,
the upper part of which is known, from the tribe that inhabits it,
as Aït Mesan. It is very difficult to trace the course of the
streams that flow northward from this part of the Great Atlas,
because they are so extensively diverted into irrigation channels
that the natural bed is often dry, except after heavy rain. According
to Beaudouin’s map the streams from this and several adjoining
valleys all flow to the Oued Tensift by the east side of the city
of Marocco. This we were led to believe an error in that map. It
is probably true of the Ourika river and its affluents; but our
own observation, confirmed by the statements of the natives, led
us to think that all the streams from the Reraya district flow
north-westward after entering the plain, and unite with those from
the districts of Gurgouri and Amsmiz to form the river Oued Nyfs,
which we had passed at Misra ben Kara; the same name, variously
pronounced Oued Enfist or Oued Enfisk, being applied to several of
the separate torrents above referred to. It will be remarked that
the name Oued Enfist is merely an anagrammatic form of Oued Tensift,
the main river that drains all this portion of the Great Atlas;
and it is a question whether the natives do not apply the same
name, with the usual laxity as to the order of the consonants,
to all the affluents of the principal stream.
After descending some way on the western side of the ridge, we
came in sight of a large village perched on the summit of a hill,
on the opposite side of the stream that ran at a great depth below
us. This we soon learned to be Moulaï Ibrahim, a _zaouia_, or
sanctuary, much venerated in all this part of Marocco, governed by
a sherreef, belonging to the family of the saint whose tomb is the
chief building of the village. This semi-independent sherreef gave
permission to M. Balansa to remain in the village for some days in
1867; but just as that active traveller was prepared to attempt to
penetrate into the interior of the chain, an order from El Graoui
made it necessary for him to depart, and follow the direct way to
Marocco. As we came in sight of the _zaouia_, each of our troop,
Shelluh as well as Moor, commenced to recite prayers, and then,
after prostrating himself on the ground, with his face towards the
sanctuary, proceeded to add a stone to certain heaps that stood
beside the track. The Berebers, in general, are said to be very
lax in conforming to the precepts of the Koran, but they are as
assiduous in their show of reverence for saints and sanctuaries
as the Moors themselves, and it would appear that this is the only
practical form in which their religion exhibits itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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