Our short mid-day halt was in a pleasant spot, under the shade of
some very fine carob and olive trees, in view of a village with
large quadrangular windowless buildings, that seemed to show that
the mountaineers here are far better lodged than the people of
the plain. The nearer hills, and one of the higher but nearer
peaks, displayed long unbroken lines of escarpment, formed by
the exposed edges of thick beds of rock (doubtless sandstone),
of a deep red colour, indicated in the annexed plate. We here
noticed the first indication of one prominent characteristic of the
Great Atlas flora—the reappearance of many of the common field
plants of Europe, which are not seen in the lower region. Among
others, we gathered three species of _Ranunculus_ (_R. arvensis_,
_R. parviflorus_, and _R. muricatus_) beside our halting place.
We were soon again in the saddle, and every step as we advanced
disclosed some new object of interest, either in the scenery that
gradually opened before us, or in the vegetation close at hand. We
passed close to a village where the demeanour of the people was
more distinctly friendly than we had yet experienced since we
landed at Tangier. The whole population—men, women unveiled,
and children—turned out to see the cavalcade pass, and something
approaching to a smile was seen on many a countenance. It appeared
that the fame of Hooker’s skill as a _hakim_ had travelled before
us, and during the following days his patience was often tried
by the numbers who flocked to consult him. In this and the other
neighbouring valleys there are a good many Jews, who appear to
find life among the Shelluhs less hard than among the Arabs of the
plain. True to the instinct of race, they contrive to make a living
as brokers, by conducting the sale of the surplus produce of the
mountain country to Moorish traders, and the purchase of the grain,
which must be brought from the low country for the subsistence of
the people.
Some more fine plants were collected by the way. Among these were
three species of _Astragalus_, one of them new, but nearly allied
to _A. narbonensis_; and _Atractylis macrophylla_, of Desfontaines,
a noble plant of the thistle tribe, much the most ornamental of the
genus, reaching a height of three feet; but, as it flowers late,
we saw only the withered heads of the previous year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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