We had many an occasion for admiring the sureness of foot of
the mules and horses in this country; but we also noticed that,
like their fellows elsewhere, they have some peculiarities of
disposition that a traveller should take note of. Maw’s mule,
hitherto remarkably steady, had a trick of keeping to the outer
verge of the path in steep places, and when his head was turned
inward his hind foot would go over the edge. After recovering himself
once or twice, he at last slipped completely. Maw saved himself in
good time, while the animal rolled down the steep slope towards the
torrent. In many places this is so precipitous that the beast must
have been killed; as it was, he was stopped by some thorny bushes,
and was with some trouble got back to the track, a sadder and a
wiser mule for the rest of that day at least. It is well known that
several fatal accidents in the Alps have occurred in places of the
same character from interference with a mule, who should be left
to take his own course. The now almost familiar road to Arround,
with the ascent of the watercourse, seeming more objectionable each
time that we passed it, was accomplished without further incident,
and no other delays than those involved in plant-collecting. In six
hours from Hasni we reached the village, whose inhabitants had all
turned out of doors to gaze on the Christian strangers who, from
some inscrutable motive, had come a second time to their secluded
valley, and now seemed resolved to fix their abode there.
A house, the best in the village we were told, had been prepared
for us by the simple process of turning out its inmates, and to
this we were at once conducted. On the ground floor were two quite
dark and low cellars or
[Illustration: HOUSES AT ARROUND.]
dens, seemingly filthy, but which we were not inclined to
explore. Ascending by some rickety steps, we reached the upper floor,
the larger part of which was occupied by a rude open verandah,
at each end of which was a little closet about seven feet square,
one of which was occupied by Maw, while the other was used as
a kitchen, the open verandah serving as our sitting-room, and as
night quarters for Hooker and Ball. As usual in the Shelluh houses,
the doors were only about four feet, and the rooms and verandah
not over five feet high, making it inconvenient for us to move
about. In most of the houses there are underground cellars to which
the inhabitants retire in winter, as is the custom in Armenia and
in some of the higher valleys of the French Alps.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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