Our evening meal was enlivened by one of some precious bottles of
generous wine that Maw had added to our stores, reserved for special
occasions, such as the present. After this we should gladly have
gone to sleep, if stern duty had not forbidden any such luxury. The
minimum of evening work for the travelling botanist is to lay out
between dry paper the contents of his boxes and portfolios filled
during the day. On this occasion the operation was more troublesome
than usual, as we struggled to screen our single flickering candle
from the night wind in the least exposed corner of the verandah,
and midnight had come and gone before we stretched our mattresses on
the earthen floor, first duly dusted with insect powder, and sought
rest. In our exposed position the cold was very sensible through
the night, though the thermometer did not fall below 45° Fahr.
The morning sky was so gloomy that no one awoke so early as we
had intended; and at sunrise on May 16, when we loudly called for
breakfast, the light was still so imperfect that it seemed as though
the day had but just dawned. There was less than the usual delay;
but six o’clock had passed, and we were not yet ready to start. To
our great satisfaction we found that the sheik did not propose to
accompany us to-day, but had appointed two men of the village to
act as guides. With these, and our usual personal attendants, whom
we knew by experience to be active pedestrians, we started about
6.30 A.M. to ascend the main southern branch of the valley. For
rather more than a mile the way over the filled-up bed of the old
moraine lake is quite flat, and for a considerable distance beyond
this the ascent along the bottom of the valley is very gentle;
but we were led by the aspect of the ground to ascend the rather
steep western slope at a part much farther from the village than
we had traversed three days before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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