We rose early on the morning of the 21st, and employed some spare time in looking about us. The _kasbah_ was not nearly so large as many that we had seen, but was distinguished by a certain air of neatness, and there were sundry indications that its possessor was superior in general intelligence and appreciation of civilised life to those we had hitherto dealt with in Marocco. In the court there was a small garden, wherein grew some large bushes of a curious variety of the common myrtle, having the young branches and leaves covered with a fine downy pubescence, the leaves were of large size, and much crowded together, giving the plant a peculiar aspect. We did not observe the myrtle in a wild state anywhere in South Marocco; and these plants probably came from some gardens in the city of Marocco. The sheik of the valley made his appearance in due time, and we at once perceived that he was reluctantly pressed into the service. He presented an example, unusual among the Shelluhs, of genuine religious fanaticism, never relaxing, during the three days which we passed in his company, from an attitude of undisguised aversion to the Christians, whom he was forced to treat with a faint show of outward civility. We afterwards learned that it was by his express order, that his people were prevented from applying for medical advice, and kept aloof from us during our stay in the valley, not even replying to the ordinary courteous salutation. The latter is quite a remarkable incident, and without example in our pretty wide experience of Oriental people. Our party was as far as possible reduced in number, most of our followers and all the escort, except two soldiers, being left behind. After the usual delay, we were under way soon after 10 P.M. Instead of directing our course towards the cleft by which the torrent issues from the mountains, we left the little town by the side farthest from the stream, and rode across the strip of plain lying between it and the outer range of steep hills. After riding about a mile we came to a place where, according to the usage of the country, the weekly market was being held. A considerable crowd of wild-looking people, most of them apparently mountaineers, formed a busy throng, wherein, under different dress and aspect, human nature showed itself much the same as it does everywhere else. One half of the crowd was intent on business, and hard bargains were driven where the difference between the seller and the buyer may not have exceeded the tenth part of a farthing. The rest were mere idlers, come to while away the time in gossip, or in listening to professional story-tellers, or in beholding the feats of serpent-charmers, who make a precarious living by frequenting these gatherings.