It was impossible not to speculate on the condition of these
primitive mountaineers, who have since the dawn of history preserved
their independence. Leo Africanus, speaking of the very district
now overlooked by us, which he calls Guzula, says that the people
were in his day molested by the predatory Arabs and by ‘the lord
of Marocco;’ but they successfully resisted all encroachments,
and no attempt is now made to assert the Sultan’s authority among
them, or to enforce tribute. Something they have doubtless gained in
material, and still more in moral, welfare by stubborn resistance to
alien rule; but the prosperity that is sometimes attained by tribes
subject to the semi-feudal rule of chiefs, and among whom intestine
feuds are rooted in immemorial tradition, is usually short-lived.
Our hope of getting further knowledge as to the eastern extremity
of the Sous valley, and the orographic relations between the Atlas
and Anti-Atlas ranges was not to be satisfied. Djebel Tezah, as
we found, stands some way north of the axis of the chain, while
the great mass that rose over against us between ENE. and ESE.,
extending to the head of the Aït Mesan valley, sends out massive
buttresses to the south, and by these our view of Anti-Atlas was
cut off to the SE. On one of these western projecting buttresses,
we could distinguish a large village belonging to the district of
Tifinout, and standing at an elevation of nearly 7,000 feet. Turning
our eyes to the north of true east, many of the higher summits of the
[Illustration]
chain were seen rising above the intervening ranges, the most distant
probably belonging to the Glaoui group, east of Tasseremout. Once
more we came to the conclusion, that throughout the portion of
the Great Atlas chain visible from the city of Marocco, between
the easternmost feeders of the Oued Tensift and those of the Oued
Nfys, there are no prominent peaks notably surpassing the average
level. Many of them must surpass the limit of 13,000 feet above the
sea, but it is not likely that any one attains the level of 13,500
feet. The last object that attracted our attention in the panorama,
in a direction about east by north, was an isolated mass, forming
a bold promontory on the northern side of the chain, of which a
rough outline is here given.
When the engrossing interest of the distant view had so far subsided
as to let us pay attention to nearer objects, we were struck by
the unexpected appearance of considerable remains of dwellings on a
platform of level ground, only a few feet below the actual summit of
the mountain. About a dozen rude stone dwellings, all in a ruinous
condition, with chambers sunk a couple of feet below the level of
the ground, and the roofs fallen in, had at some former period been
here erected; but we saw no traces of recent occupation. It seemed
most probable that they were intended as shelter for herdsmen,
who had driven their flocks in summer to this lofty station.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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