When it was clear that nothing was here to be effected in the way
of mountain exploration, and it was seen that the day was too far
gone to reach Mtouga, we decided on proceeding to Milhaïn, a place,
as we were told, standing close to the foot of the mountains. Only
a slender stream which we crossed, issues from the valley above
Imintanout, and conflicting statements were made as to the course
of this, as well as of the other stream which we saw somewhat
later at Milhaïn. In ordinary weather both are probably absorbed
into irrigation channels before they traverse the plain; but it is
most likely that their natural course, which they must follow in
rainy weather, joins that of the Oued Usbi flowing from Seksaoua,
and reaches the Oued Tensift by the way of Sheshaoua.
An easy ride of two hours took us to Milhaïn. The outer skirts
of the Atlas here had an unexpectedly bare and sterile aspect. We
had supposed that in the portion of the range approaching the
Atlantic coast a more copious rainfall would produce more luxuriant
vegetation. We were now within about 70 miles of the ocean, but,
as compared with the valleys south of Marocco, the change had been
in the opposite sense. It may well be that owing to the diminished
height of the mountains the cooling of the aërial currents from
the W. and SW. is here insufficient to cause much rain, except
in winter, or possibly this part of the range is more exposed to
hot and dry winds from the desert. It may also be true that the
difference in the vegetation is largely due to the mineral structure
of the rocks in this district. They chiefly consist of hard brittle
semi-crystalline limestone, with softer beds intercalated, and the
rainfall must be very rapidly absorbed in crevices and fissures. No
trees were to be seen, except olives planted near the villages,
and a few white poplars near the banks of the stream beside which
we pitched our camp.
We were fully prepared for the assurance of the village sheik that
the condition of the country made it impossible for him to conduct
us into the valley which here issues from the Great Atlas, and sends
down a stream rather more considerable than that of Imintanout;
and, as it was clearly useless to press the point, we contented
ourselves by expressing a wish to take a short walk into a recess of
the mountain enclosed between steep rocky declivities that opened
within sight of our camp. A jocund young Shelluh was appointed
as a guide, though none in reality was required; and he somewhat
interested us by singing lustily at the top of his voice songs of
a lively character. Hitherto all the mountaineers we had met were
marked by a serious and somewhat saddened demeanour, as of people
on whom the burden of life pressed heavily, the only exceptions
being among the men we had brought from Mogador, of whom Ambak was
especially noticeable for his cheerful and lively humour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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