Among other articles intended for presents, Ball had picked up in
London a large Highland brooch, with a yellow cairngorm crystal set
in silver. This, with an opera-glass, was given to the Governor’s
son as we took leave of him. The use of gold or silver and jewels
for personal adornment is forbidden by law or custom to Moorish men;
and the gift, which was sure to be transferred to a favourite wife,
did not seem to be much appreciated.
About mid-day we started for our short day’s ride, forming, with
Mr. Carstensen and his suite, a numerous cavalcade. Our course lay
about WNW., over low undulating hills, dotted with Argan trees. Most
of the surface was under cultivation, and appeared to be moderately
fertile. At 2.30 P.M. we reached an olive grove near to a _zaouia_
or sanctuary, called El Masaats. Close to this was a dwelling,
on a larger scale than is common in this country, belonging to
a man of some substance, with whom Mr. Carstensen had friendly
relations. It would have been impossible to pass his home without
a visit, and equally impossible, according to local ideas, for him
to neglect the rites of hospitality. Luncheon for the entire party
was speedily provided, and, while assisting as spectators at the
lively conversation, we once more had to admire Mr. Carstensen’s
perfect command of the native dialect.
As we sat under the trees several parties of natives, dressed in
their best, passed by on their way to the adjoining _zaouia_. This
was the anniversary of the death of the local saint buried at
the sanctuary; and on such occasions the people of this country,
whether Moor or Shelluh, do not fail to resort to the sacred
spot. For the great majority the occasion seems to be no more
than a welcome opportunity for breaking the monotony of their
daily life. Excepting our Mogador Kaïd, who was most exact in the
performance of his devotions, we saw little indication throughout
our journey of regular compliance with the injunctions for daily
prayer, so strictly observed in most Mohammedan countries.
After resuming our route we soon found evidence that we were entering
upon a new botanical region—that of the Atlantic coast. Besides
numerous species not seen since we had left Mogador at the end
of April, we here found for the first time several conspicuous
plants characteristic of this region. In hedges, and among bushes,
a tall _Bupleurum_ (_B. canescens_ of Schousboe) grew to a height of
eight or ten feet, and in similar situations _Periploca lævigata_
was just forming its fruit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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