The morning of June 2 was brilliantly fine, and the sun remained
unclouded throughout the day, although the heat was at no time
oppressive. At 9.30 A.M. we started for the ascent of the Djebel
Hadid, directing our course towards a hollow in the face of the
hill, for the most part thickly clothed with bushes, but showing
here and there outcropping escarpments of rock that promised a more
varied vegetation than the otherwise uniform stony slopes. We at
once found that, in comparison with the outer slopes of the Atlas,
we had entered into a region botanically new to us. The evergreen oak
had disappeared, and the Arbutus, though seen near Aïn el Hadjar,
was evidently rare. The _Callitris_, which is abundant near the
base of the hill, does not ascend on its flanks, and _Juniperus
phœnicea_ was either altogether absent or very rare. In the place
of all these there was an extraordinary abundance and variety of
spiny bushes, such as made the day’s excursion severely remembered
by the destruction of our garments and the multitude of pricks and
scratches with which our bodies were covered. _Rhus oxyacantha_
and _R. pentaphylla_, _Celastrus senegalensis_ and the wild olive,
with _Genista ferox_ and _G. tridens_, were our chief tormentors,
all, except the olive, characteristic North African species, though
two or three of them have been detected in Southern Spain or in
Sicily. Leaving our horses to be led up the slope, we had hot work
in climbing the hill under a sun only a few degrees from the zenith,
contending the while with the various thorns and hooks and prickles
that molested us on every side. Every forward movement would be
resisted by a dozen spines running deep into our legs or arms, and
each attempt to draw back by the strong hooks with which some part
of our dress was sure to be held fast. When we reached the top of
the acclivity we found ourselves on the verge of a very extensive
plateau, in some parts nearly dead level, in others undulating,
and rising into knolls of tolerably uniform height. Before long we
reached a point commanding a wide view over the country on the north
side of the range of hills. The slopes below us appeared to be under
cultivation, and suggested the presence of a numerous population;
but the distant plain of Akermout, lying somewhat east of due north,
did not to our eyes afford any sign of cultivation. Jackson gives
a view[3] of the Djebel Hadid as seen from the plain of Akermout,
with a ruined town in the foreground, which he declares to have
been utterly destroyed by the plague about the middle of the last
century. The ruins, which have been seen by other travellers,
being about 30 miles distant from Mogador and fully 15 from the
point where we stood, were naturally not perceived by us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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