On returning to our camp, some time before sunset, we found
that Mr. Carstensen had received letters from Europe that bore
intelligence of the terrible scenes enacted in Paris during the last
days of the Commune and the final suppression of the insurrection. As
was but natural, this completely engrossed our thoughts and our
conversation during the evening. It was depressing to think that
in the midst of the so-called advanced civilisation of Europe,
to which we were now returning, ferocious passions, surpassing in
their destructiveness those of the barbarian or the mere savage,
may lie concealed until some unexpected shock causes their explosion.
The night was even cooler than the preceding one, and to our surprise
the thermometer, about a quarter of an hour after sunrise on June 3,
marked only 56° F. We employed a couple of hours in the morning in
rambling about the gardens and irrigated ground near the springs,
without adding much of interest to our collections, and at about
8 P.M. started for Mogador.
For some distance the country was well wooded. Orchards and olive
groves did not extend much beyond the bounds of the irrigated
tract; the _Callitris_ then became predominant, intermixed, here
and there, with scattered Argan trees. In open spots the two showy
species of _Helianthemum_ seen the day before, _H. halimifolium_ and
_H. lavandulæfolium_, were still in full flower, and we gathered,
for the first time, a charming little _Eryngium_ (_E. tenue_)
with extremely delicate spiny leaves and involucre. Mediterranean
shrubs, such as the _Arbutus_ and _Phillyrea_, growing along with
such local forms as _Rhus oxyacantha_, _Statice mucronata_, and
_Bupleurum canescens_, would have sufficiently informed a botanist
that he was approaching the Atlantic coast of North Africa.
We soon after crossed a belt of land showing marks of former
cultivation, where no dwellings were in sight, but where we
passed close to a considerable group of earthy mounds, partly
overgrown by vegetation, and showing here and there the remains of
massive walls of _tapia_ that had partially resisted the process
of destruction. These ruins marked the site of the large _kasbah_
of a former Governor. According to the custom of the country this
had been pillaged and destroyed some thirty years before, when the
owner fell from power. The traces of man’s former presence were
speedily lost as we entered on a tract of rocky ground, where the
tertiary calcareous rock lay in horizontal beds, slightly excavated
in places by watercourses, and cut into irregular steps. The
increasing prevalence of blown sand now gave warning of a nearer
approach to the shore; the distant roar of the ceaseless Atlantic
breakers fell distinctly on the ear; amid the increasing masses
of sand vegetation became more and more sparse; we rode on amidst
undulating dunes of sand until, at length, on reaching the summit
of one of the ridges, the blue Atlantic lay before us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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